You'll find tropical milkweed in many nurseries across the U.S., but it's not the best for your garden. Pollinator enthusiast Melissa Strauss explains why tropical milkweed can be harmful and offers alternatives to consider. Plants in the milkweed genus are the sole larval food of the Monarch butterfly. They’re wonderful nectar plants for most pollinators, and with many native species, an overall great garden plant. The exception to this, sadly, is the tropical milkweed species, which you shouldn’t grow in your North American garden. Since the 1980s, the Monarch butterfly population has declined by more than 95%. In the 1990s, millions of these beautiful insects migrated from Canada to Mexico. While it’s difficult to give an exact number of monarchs still making the trip, it’s estimated that fewer than 330,000 are still migrating as of 2024. We attribute this decline to several factors. Pesticide use is a significant problem, and climate change plays a substantial role. The loss of their breeding habitats and the decrease in milkweed supply are also contributing factors. It seems natural that gardeners would want to plant as much milkweed as possible. Sadly, many retailers carry only one species of milkweed, Asclepias curassavica. This species is native to Central and South America, but not North America. The good news is that there are more than 60 species that are native to North America. It’s more challenging to find these native species, but many smaller nurseries are making an effort. If you look in the right places or grow it from seed, it’s not difficult to incorporate native species into your garden. There are several ecological and conservation-related reasons why you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed. Let’s talk about why it’s better to seek out native species than to plant this one. It may be easier to find, but it’s worth searching for a better alternative, like one of these native species: Potentially Invasive The most obvious reason you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed is its potential to become invasive. This species is popular in gardens for its vibrant flowers and its ability to attract monarch butterflies. However, it has a significant invasive potential in the United States. Unlike native species that will die back in winter, tropical milkweed can stick around year-round in warm climates. This is particularly an issue in the southern United States. Tropical milkweed is not officially classified as invasive in most parts of the U.S. However, it’s listed as potentially invasive and ecologically disruptive. Asclepias curassavica is an aggressive spreader. It can potentially outcompete native species, which is, again, never a good thing. It’s a crucial reason you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed. Disrupts Monarch Migration The monarch butterfly migration is a remarkable natural phenomenon in the insect world. Every year, monarchs travel thousands of miles from their breeding grounds in Canada and the United States. They migrate from here to their overwintering sites in central Mexico, and then back north in the spring. This round-trip migration is multi-generational. The butterflies that begin the process are not the same ones that will return. In late summer to early fall, a super generation emerges. These butterflies are larger and longer-lived than their parents. This super generation has to make the 3,000-mile trek from specific locations in the U.S. to the forests of the transvolcanic mountains of Mexico. Here they cluster together in the fir trees in a cool, high-altitude microclimate. Their metabolism slows, which conserves energy. In the spring, this super generation mates and lays eggs on milkweed plants before dying. Their offspring begin the migration northward. So, how does this relate to the idea that you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed in the United States? Tropical milkweed is what they eat in the spring. Eaten at the wrong time, it has the potential to disrupt their natural migratory cues. They may breed out of season instead of migrating. This can result in their overwintering in unsuitable environments, where they are unable to survive. Undermines Conservation Efforts In recent years, scientists, government agencies, non-profits, gardeners, and farmers have been working together on conservation efforts. The goal is to protect monarchs, one of North America’s most iconic butterflies. The goal of these efforts is to increase the availability of native milkweed and nectar plants. By planting and sustaining these plants along migratory routes and in breeding grounds, they hope to increase the population. It involves restoring grasslands and prairie ecosystems. Part of the process is removing invasive species. Efforts are made to distribute native milkweed seeds and create monarch waystations. Here, monarchs have habitats that support both feeding and reproduction. Also involved is the removal of tropical milkweed in warm climates. Organizations continue to track migratory patterns and population sizes. Other priorities include disease monitoring and reducing the use of neonics and other pesticides. They’re also under review for protection under the U.S. Endangered Species Act. Canada and Mexico join forces with the United States in conservation efforts. The cooperative trilateral efforts include the protection of breeding grounds. Additionally, efforts include migrating and overwintering sites. With all of these essential works in progress, you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed. Planting tropical milkweed is counterproductive to conservation efforts. While it may bring monarchs to the garden, it ultimately undermines these efforts. Over time, it contributes to their overall decline. Spreads OE Disease Finally, there is a strong link between this plant and the spread of OE disease (short for Ophryocystis elektroscirrha). This is a harmful parasite that affects monarch butterflies. It’s a significant reason you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed in North America. OE is a microscopic protozoan parasite that infects butterflies that feed on infected plants. This includes monarchs, as well as other species that use it as a nectar source. Native species die back in the winter, which breaks the parasite’s lifecycle. In warmer climates, tropical milkweed doesn’t die back. Unless pruned, the OE spores continue to accumulate. Since California and Florida are integral to their migration, this is particularly harmful. Remember when I mentioned that this plant can interrupt the migratory behaviors of these butterflies? They sometimes stick around because it continues to bloom late in the fall. The result is that more breeding generations are exposed to OE-contaminated plants. Butterflies become infected and shed spores onto other plants with which they come into contact. Since milkweed is their larval host, the caterpillars then feed on the infected leaves. They ingest the spores, becoming infected in the process. One solution to this is to cut back your plants in the fall. Then, clean up any leaf litter and stems to reduce further contamination. However, we really shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed to begin with. It’s best to pull it up before it goes to seed. Appropriate Alternatives As I mentioned earlier, there are a significant number of milkweed species that are native to the U.S. I find many of these to be just as lovely as the tropical species, some even more so. By planting these milkweed seeds, you contribute to the conservation of these important butterflies. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a visually striking species that closely resembles A. curassavica. Its tall stems culminate in umbels of bright orange flowers. This species is native to all of the eastern and central United States, as well as California. Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) is my personal favorite. It’s native to most of the United States except for the West Coast and Louisiana. It’s a lush plant that’s tolerant of a wide range of environments. The blooms are small and pink, and plentiful. Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) is tall with finely textured foliage. It has a delicate and airy feeling that looks beautiful in the garden. This is native to the eastern and central United States, as well as New Mexico and Arizona. Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a striking, broadleafed species. It’s large and produces significant clusters of gorgeous pink blooms. The flowers on this species aren’t terminal; they bloom along the entire stem. It’s also native to the eastern and central United States, as well as Oregon and Utah. There are more than 60 species that are native to the United States, and they’re all lovely. They also all serve as food for monarchs and their larvae. If you want to add milkweed to your garden and help with conservation efforts, choose a native species. It may be easier to find, but you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed.
Read More
Black-eyed Susans are wonderful native plants that look beautiful and attract a multitude of pollinators. Among the many varieties, 'Cherokee Sunset' is one of the prettiest cultivars. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to grow this wonderful summer and fall flower. Black-eyed Susans are an excellent plant to have around, and ‘Cherokee Sunset’ is a particularly special cultivar. They are wonderfully adaptable and attract a wide range of pollinators. They make wonderful companions in the vegetable garden, and they self-sow freely, multiplying year after year. Growing this plant is easy and straightforward, and quite rewarding. They’re also native to most of North America, making them beneficial to the ecosystem and local wildlife. Of the many varieties, ‘Cherokee Sunset’ black-eyed Susans are one of the prettiest. What Is It? ‘Cherokee Sunset’ black-eyed Susan is an eye-catching, ornamental variety loved for its boldly hued blooms. This dramatically beautiful cultivar is an incredibly prolific bloomer and a pollinator’s dream. It’s wonderful for the cutting garden and is the recipient of a Fleuroselect Award. It also won an All-America Selections award in 2002. Characteristics When it comes to special varieties of classic flowers, ‘Cherokee Sunset’ is at the top of the list. This black-eyed Susan cultivar has the same velvety stems and foliage as the original. This characteristic protects its flowers from ants. It’s a medium-sized variety that’s typical in all respects except for its flowers. Where the standard for this species is a cheerful yellow single bloom with a dark eye, this one is bolder. The flowers are double-petaled and, rather than the run-of-the-mill, solid yellow, they come in a range of warm shades. This ideal autumn flower has excellent variation between blooms. Some are orange, some brown, some yellow, but most are a melange of colors. All have a signature, dark chocolate center where you’re likely to find a native bee or two. Native Area The species, Rudbeckia hirta, is native to a significant portion of North America. It spans from one coast to the other, and from Florida well north into Canada. When it comes to their environment, these are adaptable and tolerant. You will find black-eyed Susans in prairies, meadows, open woodlands, and on rocky slopes. They grow in both moist and dry soil types. They are commonly used in the restoration of disturbed areas. Planting The ideal planting times are in the fall, before the first frost, or in spring, after the last frost. In mild climates, fall planting is preferable, as it results in earlier flowering and better reseeding. In cooler climates, it’s wise to start your seeds about six weeks ahead of the last frost date for a better and longer bloom time. While you can grow these in a container, they tend to grow larger when planted in the ground. These plants require about one foot to 18 inches of space between them, in loose, well-drained soil.
Read More
In dry, temperate areas, gardeners look for border plants that shine from spring through fall. 'Ballerina Red' Armeria is the perfect candidate! Follow along as experienced gardener and master naturalist Sarah Jay details how to grow this carefree plant. Gardeners along coastlines and in rockier areas sometimes struggle to find perennials that can handle all the salt spray and low soil nutrients. Armeria pseudarmeria is one choice that won’t promote a struggle or regret. As a first-year flowering perennial, this species is a great choice. With numerous cultivars available, it can be hard to choose. But the striking ‘Ballerina Red’ armeria is preferred in areas that need a little extra color, and punctuated blooms from spring through summer. Walkways, borders, and edges are perfect places for these crimson blooms. Armeria – regardless of the species or variety – is typically a low-maintenance plant, even in extreme conditions. The only thing to avoid is high fertility. Otherwise, these plants practically take care of themselves. What Is It? The most common armeria cultivated in North America is Armeria maritima. This plant and all members of the Armeria genus are commonly known as thrifts or sea pinks, alluding to their ability to pop off in harsh conditions. They are also called lady’s pincushions due to their rounded structure. Armerias thrive in rough, rocky areas in and around the Mediterranean. This natural range has led them to become a favored plant for waterwise gardening in coastal and generally rough regions. Armeria pseudarmeria is no exception. Characteristics Most members of the Armeria genus have a similar structure. They are small, clumping evergreen plants with lance-shaped leaves. They have compound, ball-shaped blooms in varying colors, ranging from white to pink, all the way to deep purple and red. These have a full flush of flowers in spring, and then bloom sporadically through summer and fall. Ballerina red armeria has deep red blooms and a stature that reaches under one foot tall, making it great for planting anywhere lower-stature plants fit in. Unlike other species, this armeria blooms in the first year, rather than the second. The fronds and blooms are salt and sun-tolerant, providing color through the elements in coastal areas. Native Area Armeria pseudarmeria is native to Portugal, along its rocky coastline. Seaside cliffs, rocky slopes, and salt marshes are its home. Thriving in areas that could be either consistently moist or completely dry, this plant takes the extremities like a champ. Along its native range, A. pseudarmeria thrives in highly sunny sites with poor fertility. The marshes and coastal places this plant is from lack trees, and are therefore susceptible to intense winds, and unhindered sunlight. ‘Ballerina Red’armeria is a cultivated plant developed alongside other cultivars in the ‘Ballerina’ series. These were selected from the wilds of Portugal and introduced into gardens as xeriscaping became a more popular mode of gardening. ‘Red’ was a Fleuroselect Gold Medal awardee in 2009. Planting As mentioned, ‘Ballerina’ Red Armeria is perfect for garden borders, particularly in water-wise and xeriscaped gardens. Coastal gardens benefit from the salt tolerance and short stature that enables them to withstand high winds. In-ground plantings should have rocky or sandy soils, whereas container plantings should have soil with excellent drainage.
Read More
Rudbeckia triloba, or brown-eyed Susan, brings lively color with vibrant blooms from summer through frost. The North American native makes a sunny addition to a naturalized landscape. It attracts pollinators, and needs little tending to thrive. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores the merits of the easy-going wildflower with high color late in the season. Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia triloba) brings waves of sunny yellow flowers that brighten the summer and fall landscape. Cold-hardy, heat-tolerant, and rugged, the native wildflower thrives across growing conditions. R. triloba is similar to its well-known relative, black-eyed Susan (R. hirta), but is taller and has smaller flowers that emerge in profusion later in summer with a longer bloom time. Rudbeckia triloba is low-maintenance and adapts to various conditions and soil types. Drought-tolerant once established, it needs little tending to put on a big show from July to October, depending on the climate. Pollinators appreciate the late infusion of nectar and pollen, while songbirds forage on seeds in fall and winter. For lively color in the border, bouquet, or dried arrangement, brown-eyed Susan shakes away the weariness of late summer. What is Rudbeckia triloba? Rudbeckia triloba is a short-lived perennial or biennial with ray flowers. The blanket of bright yellow blooms adds color in late summer until hard frost. Common names include brown-eyed Susan, thin-leaved coneflower, and three-lobed coneflower. The natives spend the first year developing roots and leafy growth and may produce some flowers. In the second year, full-flowering glory sweeps in before they fade. With easy reseeding, spring yields a successional crop of color. Rucbeckia triloba is at home in the ornamental border and in native, wildflower, pollinator, rock, and cottage gardens. They’re showy en masse, which is easy to achieve with ready reseeding. They also make a vibrant addition to fresh florals that last a long time in the vase. Brown-eyed Susan is a host plant for the silvery checkerspot butterfly (Chlosyne nycteis) and supports other pollinators and beneficial insects with their pollen and nectar. Songbirds, especially American goldfinches, forage on the seeds in the cool season. Characteristics Late summer and fall see a blanket of golden daisy blooms, persisting until hard frost. Multibranched stems create the all-over bloom coverage as they rise above basal leaves. Allowed to spread without other plants nearby, the bushy mounds reach four feet wide. Each bright bloom measures one to three inches across and appears in a mass at full bloom. Short, flat, and wide, the petite flowers hold 8 to 12 rays. Black button centers fade to dark purple-brown before producing seeds and drying. The dark green basal leaves have three divided oval lobes (hence the species name triloba). The leafy rosettes may persist through winter as an evergreen groundcover. Cluster brown-eyed Susan with other perennials to support the tall stems in flower. They pair beautifully with ornamental grasses and with other blooms like aster, monarda, echinacea, columbine, lupine, and amsonia. Native Area R. triloba is native to the Midwest and Eastern regions of the U.S., from New York to Florida and west to Minnesota, Texas, and Utah. Its natural habitat is moist, open woods, fields, along streams, and on rocky slopes. With hardiness across USDA zones 3 through 9, the perennials bear good heat and cold tolerance in wide-ranging growing situations. Planting The wildflowers reseed to expand the colony and fill a space given the chance. Space them 12 to 18 inches apart to allow ample air circulation while presenting a dense display of the basal leaves and multi-branched stems. In windy or shady zones, the tall stems may need support to keep from falling over. While they can reach five feet, two to three feet is more common.
Read More
Nemesia is a low-growing flowering plant that works well as a colorful filler for containers and garden beds. Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to plant and care for this unique flower. If you’re looking for a new flowering plant for window boxes, raised beds, and ornamental gardens, check out nemesia. This plant is less common than petunias, impatiens, and other summer annuals, so it will add a new layer of interest to your garden. Nemesia plants only grow a few feet tall and become covered with flowers shortly after the weather warms. That makes them an excellent plant for adding a pop of color to late spring and early summer gardens. The plants can continue blooming throughout the summer if you choose a heat-tolerant variety and plant them in a location that’s protected from harsh afternoon sun. I’ll cover how to grow nemesia so it provides you with beautiful and long-lasting flowers. You’ll learn how to select the right growing location, choose a variety that suits your needs, and address common problems. What Is Nemesia? Nemesia is a genus of flowering plants that consists of around 70 different species. You can find various species available for sale at garden centers, but Nemesia strumosa and Nemesia caerulea are the most commonly available species. Numerous hybrids also exist and make up some of the newest cultivars. Nemesia plants are also known as cape jewels or pouch nemesia. Characteristics Some nemesia species are tender perennials, and others are annuals. Regardless, most growers treat all types of nemesia as annuals and replant them each year. The varieties commonly grown in stores typically grow between one and two feet tall. They produce multiple stems from the base of the plant, leading to a short yet bushy appearance. Each stem is covered with slender, lance-shaped leaves that appear in pairs. The top of the stems eventually becomes covered with two-lipped flowers that slightly resemble snapdragon blooms. When the plants are in full bloom, the base of the plant is almost hidden by the flowers. The flowers vary in color depending on the variety and come in colors including purple, yellow, pink, and orange. Sometimes, the upper and lower lips are the same color, and other times, they’re two different hues. Native Area All types of nemesia are native to South Africa. They often grow in well-drained soils or in sandy and rocky coastal areas. Planting You can grow nemesia from seed or transplants. Some hybrid varieties are only available as seedlings, so transplanting is your only option for these types of nemesia.
Read More
After lilies produce their beautiful flowers, their blooms fade and begin to set seed. Join flower farmer Briana Yablonski to learn if you should trim these faded lily blooms. Lilies are some of the most stunning garden flowers. Whether you plant a row of daylilies to bring a pop of color to a woodland border or have a few Asiatic lilies growing in pots, you probably hope to enjoy these flowers for as long as possible. Even if your plants are healthy and loaded with flowers, these trumpet-shaped blooms will eventually fade and wither. That begs the question of whether you should leave these old flowers on the plant or trim them. I’ll cover whether or not you should trim faded lily blooms so you can keep your lilies healthy and producing for as long as possible. The Short Answer While you don’t have to trim faded lily blooms, doing so will allow the plant to send its energy towards growth and flower production. Plus, it will keep the plants looking tidy and reduce the likelihood of decay and fungal growth. Use a pair of pruning shears to remove the old flowers as soon as they begin to droop and change color. The Long Answer There’s no harm in removing old lily blooms, but learning a bit more about the benefits and steps of this process can help you determine if it’s worth completing. I’ll cover some reasons why you should trim faded lily blooms and further explain how and when to deadhead the old flowers. Why Trim Faded Lily Blooms? When you look at lilies from a human perspective, the flowers are the main attraction. The large, trumpet-shaped blooms brighten up woodland edges, serve as focal points in bouquets, and provide color throughout the summer. And with so many different lily varieties to choose from, it’s easy to find a few that you like. Plants view flowers differently. The whole goal of the flower is to encourage the pollination that’s required for seed set. Once the flowers are pollinated, the plants can start the energy-intensive process of seed production in order to carry on their genetics. Removing old lily flowers will prevent the plants from sending their limited energy and nutrients toward seed production. They can then focus on other tasks, like producing new flowers that you can enjoy. Trimming faded lily flowers also limits the likelihood that the plants will develop rot. Old flowers become soft and moist, which encourages fungi to colonize the limp, brown flowers. Removing these flowers reduces the likelihood of disease occurrence. How to Trim Faded Lily Blooms Trimming faded lily blooms is easy. First, locate old blooms. You can trim the blooms as soon as they become wilted and begin to change color. Grab a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears and locate the ideal cutting site. Some lilies, like daylilies, form a small cluster of flowers on long, slender stems. Others produce a larger number of flowers atop sturdier stems. Regardless of which type of lily you’re growing, trim the faded flower’s peduncle. This is the small stem that attaches the flower to the rest of the plant. Cut at a clean angle to encourage quick healing and allow the plant to continue producing new flowers. How Often to Deadhead Lilies While deadheading lilies every couple of days is ideal, don’t sweat it if you can only complete this task once a week. Your overarching goal is to remove the flowers before they begin forming seeds. Since daylily flowers only last a day, don’t worry about removing the flowers as soon as they die. Instead, you can wait until all of the flowers on a single stalk have faded, then trim back the entire stem. Continue trimming back the dead blooms until the plants stop producing new flowers. At the end of the growing season, you can trim back the stems to the ground. Should You Trim Peace Lily Blooms? Peace lilies aren’t true lilies, which explains why they look different from common garden lilies. Instead, these houseplants are perennials that are members of the Spathiphyllum genus. So, if they aren’t true lilies, should you still trim their faded blooms? Yes, you should remove faded peace lily blooms to encourage the plant to produce new flowers. Peace lily flowers often last weeks or even months, but they’ll eventually fade. The flowers will die back on their own, but you can trim the faded blooms to keep the plant tidy and allow it to focus on producing new growth.
Read More
Queen Lime zinnias are a special series with soft, sophisticated colors. They may not be as flamboyant as some of their more colorful counterparts, but we love them. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss growing these special zinnias. Zinnias are a favorite of mine; I say it time and time again. If there is one flower I will plant every year without fail, it’s the zinnia. This powerhouse annual truly does it all. The ‘Queen Lime’ series is a unique and beautiful one. Zinnias are vigorous growers and producers of large, lovely flowers. Their long, strong stems make them an excellent choice for the cutting garden. They’re also an excellent addition to the pollinator patch with their flat, accessible, nectar-rich flowers. These flowers are incredibly easy to grow and have a great payoff for the effort invested. If you like to see butterflies in the garden, these will make it happen. They bloom throughout the summer and fall, right up to your first frost. What Is It? ‘Queen Lime’ zinnias are a group best known for their subtle, beautiful, and sophisticated colors. Most varieties get recognition for their bold, bright colors. These have a quiet loveliness that is best enjoyed up close and personal. They are excellent for the cutting garden, where you will want to add them to every bouquet. Characteristics ‘Queen Lime’ zinnias are medium to large-sized plants that can reach heights of nearly four feet. If you pinch them and cut them often, they will grow into lovely, shrubby plants that look lovely in mixed flower beds. They have strong, slim stems and slightly fuzzy foliage. The main draw for this particular series is the color of the blooms. There are four recognized varieties, but I’ve seen several others pop up in recent years. The classic ‘Queen Lime’ zinnia is a lime green cultivar; its petals are bright and cool. When combined with other colors, the results are charming and nostalgic. The lime green shade overlaid with pink, peach, red, yellow, and orange becomes a group of earthy, muted hues. They have a vintage appeal and blend well with almost any color combination. Native Area Zinnia elegans is native to parts of Central and North America, including Mexico and the southwestern United States. They grow in semi-arid, warm climates with moderate rainfall. ‘Queen Lime’ is a cultivated series that works well in the same climates as its wild predecessor. Planting The ideal time to plant zinnias is in the spring, as soon as the ground is warm enough for them to germinate (about 65°F or 18°C). You can start them earlier indoors, but they grow best if you plant them right in the garden. ‘Queen Lime’ is a medium-sized plant that requires about 18″-24″ of space to spread. You can succession sow them throughout the season, as they will continue to bloom until the first frost.
Read More
Zinnias make an excellent addition to the summer cutting garden. They are sturdy plants that produce a great volume of large, colorful flowers. Join cut flower gardener Melissa Strauss for tips on making your cut zinnias last as long as possible. Zinnias are one of my all-time favorite flowers for the cutting garden. Not only are they big, bright, and beautiful, but they also have a great vase life. With long, slender stems and their excellent production rate, it’s no wonder they are so popular. If you’re growing them, you’ll want to know how to make your cut zinnias last as long as possible. A zinnia’s vase life is variable, depending on how you cut and care for it. The average vase life of these flowers is about 5-7 days. However, with proper care, you can make them last up to 10 days. I’ve even had them last for two weeks! Along with their long vase life, other qualities make zinnias great cut flowers. They are fast growers, blooming in as few as 50-60 days after planting. You can directly sow them, so they require little effort to get them started. They also produce a ton of flowers per plant. Naturally, with all of these remarkable qualities, this is a common selection for the cutting garden. If you handle them well, you’ll have beautiful bouquets throughout the summer, and often through the fall as well. If you want your cut zinnias to last, there are a few simple tricks to cutting and caring for them. Cut at the Right Time When I say to cut them at the right time, I’m talking about two distinct factors. That is, the right time for the plant, and the right time of day. First, let’s talk about the stage of development that is ideal for cutting if you want to make those cut zinnias last. Some flowers in the cutting garden are good for cutting in the bud stage. Roses and peonies, for example, fall into this category. This is ideal for flowers that continue to open after you’ve cut them. Zinnias, on the other hand, do not continue to open after cutting, so this is a bad idea. You want to wait until the flowers are fully open and the stem is stiff and strong. If you see a fully open bloom and are unsure about the stem, you can perform the ‘wiggle test.’ Gently shake the stem back and forth. If the stem, near the flower, remains stiff, it’s ready to cut. If, on the other hand, the flower wobbles around on a weak stem, leave it be. Factors that contribute to strong stems include pinching the young plants to encourage strong branches. Adequate sunlight and watering are also factors. Direct sowing your seeds will cause them to be stronger in general and more firmly rooted. The time of day that you do your harvesting is also important. Your zinnias will be at their strongest and freshest first thing in the morning. This is when they’re fully hydrated and haven’t been wilting in the hot sun all day. It’s ideal to water your zinnias early in the morning, give them an hour to absorb the moisture, and then cut them. Aim to cut before 9 a.m. for the freshest, most hydrated flowers. Prepare Your Vase Early When I cut flowers from my cutting garden, I prefer to take a jar of water along. This way, I can place the stems directly in the water, immediately after cutting them. Prep your vase ahead of time, even if it only takes you ten minutes to do your cutting. Zinnias like a bit of lukewarm water initially. Your stems will absorb cold water, but they will do so more slowly. By giving water at room temperature, or just slightly above, they will drink it quickly, keeping them well hydrated. Avoid using water that is too warm, as this can shock or damage them. Fill a jar or vase with clean, lukewarm, or room temperature water. Add some flower food for an extra boost. As you cut your zinnias, place them directly in the jar or vase. Leave them in this liquid for a few hours to allow your stems to take in as much as possible. Then, give all your stems a fresh cut when arranging them and place them in fresh water with flower food. Refresh Often The next important step is to change out your water often. Every one to two days is ideal, but at least every three. This is an area where I, admittedly, fall short of my best. But if you want to make your cut zinnias last as long as possible, it’s important. Old water is a breeding ground for bacteria. Once it gets in there, which it inevitably will, it will proliferate. That bacteria clogs up the ends of your stems, which reduces their ability to take in moisture. You’ll end up with slimy, rotting stems. Clean water keeps those stems fresh and open, allowing them to continue absorbing it. It helps prevent decay, allowing your flowers to stay fresh and vibrant for longer. It also keeps those stems stiff and standing upright. When you change out your water, remove the flowers and rinse out the vase thoroughly. Refill the vase with clean, fresh solution with plant flower food. Then, re-cut all the stems at a slight angle before returning them to the vase. Re-cutting the stems is essential because, over time, the ends seal over and stop absorbing moisture. Every time you give them a fresh cut, you make it possible for them to absorb more water. Cutting them at a slight angle increases the surface area available to absorb fresh water. Keep Them Cool Did you know that florists store their flowers in a cooler while they are awaiting arrangement? Then, they return the arrangements to the cooler until you are ready to pick them up. There are several important reasons for this. Cool temperatures inhibit the growth of bacteria. Bacteria thrive in warm, moist conditions, so keeping the water and surrounding air cool slows them down. Your flowers also wilt more slowly when you keep the air and water cool. They continue to breathe after cutting, and this process occurs more slowly in cooler temperatures. This helps to reduce moisture loss and aging, keeping your blooms hydrated and fresh. During the day, you’ll want to keep your flowers in a location where you can enjoy them. This isn’t always going to be the coolest room in the house. At night, you can move your flowers to a cooler room, such as a basement, garage, or refrigerator, to maintain their freshness for longer. Be cautious about refrigerators, as fruits release a gas that shortens the lifespan of your flowers. If you have a second fridge that you don’t use for storing fruit, this is perfect. Otherwise, the refrigerator is a bad idea. Stay Away From the Window Finally, to make cut zinnias last longer, keep them away from direct sunlight, such as near a window. This is even more important in the summer. Direct sunlight increases the temperature of both the air and the water around your flowers. It increases respiration, accelerating water loss and causing them to age faster. Warm water encourages bacteria to grow in the water, clogging stems and inhibiting water intake. Similarily, warm air causes the flowers to dehydrate faster. Warm air and direct sunlight will dry out delicate petals, causing them to wilt and fall sooner, which is exactly what we want to prevent. Apply this to the location in general. It’s not limited to windows. Always keep cut flowers away from heat sources. Appliances, such as the stove or a coffee pot, can put off heat and speed up the wilting process. Also, keep them away from ripening fruits, which emit ethylene gas. Key Takeaways Moisture and temperature play a central role in keeping your cut zinnias fresh for as long as possible. Place your stems in water immediately, and change the water often. Keeping your flowers in a cool spot, out of direct sunlight, and away from heating sources. These factors will extend the vase life and freshness of your cut zinnias by up to a week!
Read More
It isn’t always easy to match gerbera daisies’ ideal cultural conditions, but growing them in pots grants us the flexibility to control certain conditions. The right temperature, moisture, soil type, and sun exposure become more achievable with the portability of containers. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores how to provide the best potted environment for the delightful, bouncy blooms. Gerbera daisies delight nursery shelves and pop up in grocery stores as temperatures warm in spring. Their broad, ray petals in saturated pigments from soft pink to sunny yellow to bright red bring unmatched, clear color. It’s no wonder they’re among the most popular cut flowers, spreading bouquets of cheer with their symmetrical daisy flowers. The gerbera daisies we bring home as small, potted specimens hail from the ideal environments of controlled greenhouses. They’re near perfection, with lush, deep green leaves and multiple blooms on sturdy stems. With the right cultural conditions (and some luck), they’ll stay that way as we repot them at home to grow all season and beyond. Gerbera jamesonii is native to South Africa, where it experiences sunny, mild conditions at the sweet spot of frost-free winters and coolish summers. The cheerful blooms require specific conditions for sustenance, whether growing the gerbera daisies in pots as annuals or year-round. Select the Container and Potting Mix To accommodate extensive root growth, opt for a container at least 12 inches deep and two inches wider than the nursery pot. Use a larger pot if creating a combination arrangement to allow space for airflow around the daisy. The pot should have ample drainage holes for water to flow through freely. Clay pots are beneficial for root health, though they dry out more quickly than other materials like plastic. The pot material factors into watering frequency. An organically rich, well-draining potting mix gives potted gerberas the best foundation. Start with a quality mix formulated for containerized growing. These provide nutrients, aeration, and moisture retention with a sterile base. To increase coarseness for improved aeration and drainage, amend with a small amount of perlite or sand. The Right Temperatures The trickiest growing requirement for many of us to meet is the ideal temperature range. The daisies are tender perennials in USDA zones 8-11 and grow as annuals elsewhere. Gerberas need a mild 60-70°F (16-21°C) to thrive. They tolerate brief dips or spikes in either direction, but not drastically and not for sustained periods. They’re cold-sensitive and also wither in high heat. They withstand brief drops as low as 30°F (-1°C), but won’t survive with lengthy spells below freezing. For those of us in southern climates, it’s not necessarily the cold but the heat that hinders the daisies. Often grown as spring annuals, they yellow and peter out as summer approaches. The advantage of growing gerbera daisies in pots is portability. Repositioning and moving the containers let us match the ideal temperatures as closely as possible. We can move them to spots with afternoon shade to protect them from intense summer rays. In winter, they travel to protected spaces to ward off cold exposure. The Best Light While the daisies don’t love high heat, they do need full sun. Six or more hours of daily sunlight is ideal. Site the pots where they’ll receive generous morning sun and dappled light in the afternoon. Direct mid- and late-day summer sun can burn the leaves and petals in warm climates. Situate the Crown With the proper container, potting media, and the right siting, it’s time to pot up the showy annual (or tender perennial). When transplanting from the nursery pot to the larger container, install the crown a little high. Planting slightly above soil level allows for settling while protecting the crown from excess moisture. Aim for the same height as the crown was in the nursery pot. Planting just above the surface improves air circulation around stems and keeps them from overly humid conditions, like sitting in moist soils. Crown and stem rot are fungal problems for gerberas planted too deeply. A sunken crown also impedes growth and flowering. Good air circulation is key for gerbera daisies in pots to minimize diseases. In combination plantings, maintain space around the daisy stems. Prune other specimens if they encroach as a means to prevent humidity around the crown and leaves. Situate pots with airflow between walls, structures, and other containers. How to Water Gerbera daisies in pots do best with regular moisture, with slight drying between sessions. Water deeply when the potting media feels dry an inch below the surface. Frequency is usually once a week or two, depending on the growing environment. Let water flow through the drainage holes for full saturation. If using a saucer to collect runoff, empty it shortly after watering to prevent soggy soils. Err on the dry side rather than overwatering, as root rot from overwatering is a common cause of decline. In oversaturated soils, fungal rot renders the roots unable to uptake water and nutrients to support upper growth and flowering. To stave off other fungal problems like powdery mildew, anthracnose, and botrytis, avoid wetting the foliage unnecessarily during watering sessions. Give leaves a bath or a dusting on occasion to get rid of pest-attracting conditions, but limit damp situations. Water early in the day to best support plant processes and also prevent prolonged moisture. Fertilizing A boost in nutrition helps gerbera daisies in pots realize their full blooming potential. Organic liquid feeds for blooming plants require once-a-month applications, or every two weeks at ½ dilution. Slow-release granular options distribute nutrients gradually over a couple of months. Fertilize in the active growing seasons of spring and summer, stopping in late summer as growth slows and plants prepare to overwinter. Avoid fertilizing in high heat situations, too, as the daisies try to weather them. Fertilizing stressed plants only adds to the situation by prompting new growth with few reserves. If you notice yellowing leaves between the veins, iron or manganese deficiency may be the cause. Opt for a fertilizer that contains these to restore the elements. Pruning and Maintenance A thriving daisy doesn’t require much maintenance other than regular water and fertilizing. Deadhead faded flowers to promote new blooms. Clip off yellowing leaves as they crop up to prevent disease. The potted specimens benefit from repotting each year if carried over. The roots grow quickly and need a bigger pot or a trim and refreshed potting mix. If you’re at the repotting point, lucky you – you have skillfully maintained the daisy within its cultural threshold. The best time to repot gerbera daisies is in the spring before flowering. The daisies need repotting when roots pop out of the drainage holes or on the surface. They may show wilting leaves and stems as soil mass decreases, and soil dries out more quickly as the roots run out of room. Slowed new growth and a lack of flowers are other indicators to repot. Another reason to repot is to refresh the soil’s nutrition. Potting mixes break down with regular watering and root absorption. They begin to lack nutrients, aeration, and oxygenation necessary for the plant’s health. Overwintering To protect the tender species from winter chill, plan to move them indoors or to a protected area before temperatures are consistently in the low 40s (~4°C). To transition them in the fall: Stop fertilizing by late summer Move them to a sheltered location like a garage, basement, or cold frame with cool temperatures (around 45-50°F or 7-10°C) and some natural light Or, move them indoors to grow as houseplants in a bright spot out of direct sunlight, like an east-facing window or filtered, indirect light from southern or western exposures. Reduce watering, waiting until soil dries about two inches below the surface for houseplants and a few for those in cold storage (don’t allow roots to dry out completely, but once a month is usually sufficient) Move the daisies outside after spring’s final frost and as temperatures rise to the 50s (10°C) and above Resume regular watering, fertilizing, and deadheading to enjoy another season of the happy blooms
Read More
Zinnias are a wonderful way to add quick and bold color to your summer garden. 'California Giants' do it in grand style. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss growing and caring for your zinnias. Zinnias are vibrant, low-maintenance flowers that we love for their bold, long-lasting flowers and easy-going nature. These members of the daisy family love warm, summer weather. A wide range of forms and colors makes them perfect for any sunny space in the garden. From small single cultivars to double-petaled ‘California Giants’ zinnias, these cheerful flowers are always charming. Their long, continuous blooming season lasts from early summer until frost. Their high impact in the garden, paired with their strong appeal to pollinators, makes these zinnias a win in my book! What Is It? ‘California Giants’ zinnias are an impressive heirloom known for their large, dahlia-form blooms in vibrant colors. They make an excellent addition to the cutting garden, with long-lasting flowers on tall, strong stems. Their beauty, coupled with their ease of care, makes these a fantastic addition to cutting gardens, containers, and flowerbeds. Characteristics ‘California Giants’ is a large, flowering variety of zinnia characterized by its bold, vibrant flowers. They often reach five inches in diameter, making them one of the largest cultivars. The substantial blooms are usually semi-double to fully double, with a dahlia-like form. The blooms in shades of red, orange, pink, white, purple, and yellow are attractive to pollinators. Butterflies, in particular, love to drink nectar from zinnias. Their wide, often open flowers are easily accessible to pollinators. The plants are upright and branching, and they branch more when you cut and deadhead the flowers. They’re great for cutting gardens and the back of borders. These begin blooming in late spring to early summer, depending on your climate. With proper care, they will continue to produce flowers right up until your first frost. Native Area Zinnia elegans is native to Mexico and parts of Central and North America. They typically grow wild in warm, arid, and semi-arid regions. ‘California Giants’ zinnia is a cultivated strain that is well-suited to a wide range of climates. Planting The best time to plant your ‘California Giants’ zinnias is in the spring, as soon as the weather is warm enough. While you can start them indoors early, they are easiest to sow directly in the garden. These are a large type of zinnia, and they need some space to spread out. Keep this in mind when deciding on a location. Ideally, your plants will grow large and shrubby, producing an abundance of flowers.
Read More
