Delphiniums are sought-after in gardens, but many gardeners assume they need large beds and plenty of space to thrive. Gardening expert Madison Moulton explains how to successfully grow these showstoppers in containers, perfect for small spaces. Considering the size of many delphinium plants, most people think they are strictly for beds with plenty of room to play with. But delphiniums can thrive in pots and containers if you know how to make them happy. I’m an advocate for growing pretty much anything in a container. Container growing gives you so much more control over soil conditions and allows you to move delphiniums to the best locations throughout the season. They do have specific needs that become more critical in the confined space of a pot, but as long as you get the basics right (which isn’t too tricky), you’ll have stunning flowers all season long. Delphiniums in pots and containers also let you enjoy these perennials in areas where soil conditions aren’t ideal. Heavy clay or poor drainage that would stress garden plants becomes irrelevant when you can provide perfect growing conditions in a pot. Here’s how to get it right. Choosing the Right Variety Not all delphiniums are suited for container growing. The massive ‘Pacific Giant’ varieties that can reach 8 feet tall will obviously struggle in small pots and require constant staking to stop them from falling over. You’ll likely spend more time propping them up than enjoying the flowers (if they even appear at all). Instead, look for compact varieties bred specifically for smaller spaces. Dwarf varieties like ‘Butterfly Blend‘ stay around 15 inches tall. These work well in smaller pots and can even be grown successfully on balconies with limited space. Don’t expect the towering spikes of larger varieties, but they’ll still give you a classic delphinium look that works well in cottage-style gardens. Planting Delphiniums in a metal pot or container, appearing to have delicate petals with a hint of blue Growing delphiniums in pots and containers is not complicated once you understand what they need and make a few small adjustments. The benefits of choosing this route are being in control of everything (soil, drainage, space, and the location). This control is actually an advantage, since delphiniums can be picky about their growing conditions. Or at least they are when I try to grow them. The biggest mistakes people make are choosing containers that are too small and using regular garden soil instead of proper potting mix. Follow these steps when you’re planting to give yourself the best start. Choosing Containers Delphiniums have extensive root systems that need plenty of space to develop properly, even with smaller varieties. Larger is generally better when it comes to pot or container size. You want the container to be proportional to the eventual size of the mature delphinium, not what it starts out as. Drainage is critical. Choose containers with multiple drainage holes, or drill additional holes if needed in recycled or upcycled containers. Delphiniums will rot quickly in waterlogged soil. Don’t think you can control watering to make up for lack of drainage, because your plants probably won’t last the rest of the season. The shape of the container matters too. Wide but shallow containers don’t work well for delphiniums since they need depth for their root systems. Look for pots and containers that are at least as deep as they are wide, or even deeper. Soil Delphiniums are picky about soil conditions. Luckily, growing delphiniums in pots and containers gives you complete control over what they’re planted in. Use a high-quality potting mix rather than garden soil, which becomes too dense and poorly draining in containers. Garden soil also brings potential disease and pest problems that you can avoid with fresh potting mix. Soil pH should be slightly alkaline. Most potting mixes are slightly acidic, so you may need to add lime to raise the pH, although this is not really necessary if you’re growing as annuals. Test your mix and adjust before planting if you prefer. Ensure excellent drainage by adding perlite or coarse sand if your potting mix seems too moisture-retentive. Standing water around roots will kill delphiniums faster than almost any other problem. The mix should feel moist but not soggy when you squeeze a handful. Some gardeners add slow-release fertilizer pellets to the soil mix at planting time. This can work well, but be careful not to overdo it. Too much fertilizer creates great foliage but fewer flowers, which defeats the purpose of growing delphiniums. Rather wait until they’ve settled in before starting the feeding process. Seeds vs Starts Seeds need cold stratification and can take several weeks to germinate. Most container gardeners find it easier to start with nursery plants, especially if you want flowers the first year. If you do start from seed, begin indoors about 10 weeks before your last frost date. Cold stratify seeds in the refrigerator for a few weeks before planting. The cold treatment is crucial for good germination. Nursery starts give you instant gratification and are usually already at a good size for transplanting into containers, but they do give you less choice over variety. Choose plants with strong stems and healthy foliage, avoiding any that look stressed or pot-bound. Plant in early spring after the last frost but while temperatures are still cool. Delphiniums establish better in cool weather and may struggle if planted during hot summer months. Care Once your delphiniums are planted, the key to success is consistent care. They like routine, but don’t like being fussed over too much. Container delphiniums need more attention than garden plants since they’re completely dependent on you for water and nutrients. The good news is that you can provide exactly what they need when they need it. Sunlight Delphiniums need plenty of light to produce their sought-after flowers. Aim for at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, with morning sun being most important for strong stem development. Plants that don’t get enough light become weak and spindly with fewer flowers. In hot climates, some afternoon shade can actually benefit container plants. The confined root space (and possible extra heating of container materials, depending on what you choose), makes potted delphiniums more susceptible to heat stress. Also position containers where they’ll receive good air circulation. Stagnant air and overcrowding can lead to disease problems, especially in humid conditions. Avoid windy spots that might blow over flower spikes or dry out the soil too quickly. If you’re growing delphiniums on a balcony or patio, watch for reflected heat. This can stress plants even when they’re getting adequate light. Sometimes moving containers a few feet away from heat-reflecting surfaces makes a big difference. Water Consistent moisture is crucial for delphiniums, but overwatering is just as problematic as drought. Container plants need more frequent watering than garden ones, especially during hot weather. The trick is finding the right balance. Check soil moisture daily. Water when the top inch is dry but the soil below is still slightly moist. This usually means watering every three days or so, but could be daily during heat waves or less frequent during cool, cloudy periods. Water deeply and slowly to saturate the soil. Shallow watering encourages surface roots that are more susceptible to heat stress. Avoid getting water on the foliage, especially in the evening. Wet leaves combined with cool night temperatures create ideal conditions for fungal diseases. Container size affects watering frequency. Smaller containers dry out faster than larger ones, so you’ll need to water more often. This is another reason to choose the largest container you can manage. Fertilizing Container delphiniums grow better with regular feeding since frequent watering leaches nutrients from the soil. I recommend feeding around once a month during the growing season. A balanced liquid fertilizer works well, or one with slightly lower nitrogen. Stop fertilizing a month before your first expected frost to allow plants to prepare for dormancy. Late-season feeding can encourage tender growth that’s more susceptible to cold damage. Potted delphiniums need time to slow down before winter. Maintenance Staking is usually necessary, even for some compact varieties. Install stakes when planting or when stems reach about 12 inches tall. Waiting until stems are taller risks damaging the root system. Use supports that are about two-thirds the expected height of the variety. Tie stems loosely with soft materials like garden twine or plant ties. Avoid wire or anything that might cut into the stems as they grow. Deadhead spent flower spikes throughout the season to encourage additional blooms. Many delphiniums will also produce a second flush of flowers if cut back after the first blooming. This won’t be as tall or dramatic, but still provides good color. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves throughout the season. This keeps potted delphiniums looking tidy and prevents disease problems. Don’t worry about removing a few leaves, as delphiniums can handle moderate pruning without struggle. In areas with strong winds, consider using circular supports instead of single stakes. These provide support from multiple directions, keeping the stems upright. Troubleshooting Rot is the most common problem with delphiniums in pots and containers. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, wilting despite moist soil, and blackened stem bases. This is usually caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Once you see these symptoms, the plant is often beyond saving. If rot develops, remove the plant and check the roots. Healthy roots should be white or light colored. Black, mushy roots indicate rot, and the plant is usually beyond saving. You can try cutting away affected roots and replanting in fresh soil, but success rates are low. Aphids often attack new growth and flower buds. Regular inspection helps catch infestations early when they’re easier to control. A strong spray of water can dislodge small populations. For heavier infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Powdery mildew appears as white, powdery spots on leaves. This fungal disease thrives in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Improve airflow and avoid overhead watering to prevent further issues. Prune away mildewed leaves as they crop up. If plants become too tall and floppy despite staking, they may not be getting enough light. Insufficient light causes weak growth that can’t support the weight of the flower spikes. Move pots and containers to a brighter location if possible to resolve the problem.
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Asters bloom bright, star-like flowers that fill the late summer garden with color and fragrance. They’re tough, hardy, and vigorous! They’ll need division after a few years to continue growing well. Join native plant gardener Jerad Bryant and learn how and when to divide your asters. Asters come in all shapes and sizes! Perennial American asters offer dozens of species to choose from; they’re native to the U.S., and they thrive without much care. Many are frost-hardy and grow well from New York to Oregon. There are also annual asters, like China asters. These heirloom favorites die at the end of the growing season, and you’ll need to sow their seeds in spring if you’d like them in the summer garden. You can’t divide them—you can only divide perennial asters that sprout anew each spring. Many plants go by the common name of aster, though botanists have split up the genus into many new ones. Don’t worry! This guide works for all perennial aster species, regardless of their scientific name. Use it to guide you through dividing and replanting your asters for a garden full of blooms. Why Divide Asters? There’s more than one reason to divide asters. Maybe you want more plants, or you’d like to rejuvenate an old garden. Take a close look at your plants and note their conditions. After studying them, you’ll know whether or not to divide and replant them. Propagate New Plants The main reason for division is to gain new plants! You can turn a single clump into many new ones. Instead of buying seeds or potted plants at the store, you’ll convert your healthy asters into many new plants. Though free plants sound exciting, it’s best to wait to divide them until the clumps are of a good size. Dividing is a stressful process for aster varieties, and they need a robust root system to survive the stress. Remember, you can only divide perennials! Annuals die at the end of the growing season, and dividing them won’t propagate new plants like you’d hope. To propagate annuals like China asters in the genus Callistephus, you’ll need to save seeds or take cuttings. Rejuvenate Old Specimens Division doesn’t just give you new plants—it also revives old asters! As the clumps grow wider and thicker, they fill the area with dead leaves, elaborate root systems, and fresh growth. This organic matter collects and crowds out your asters, which can lead to poor growth in the future. Instead of letting the plants suffer, simply divide them when they outgrow their space. A quick refresh will help them flourish for years to come. Prevent Spread The final reason for division is to limit your plants’ spread. They’ll grow wider and denser annually so long as they have access to sun, water, and nutrients. Maybe they’re creeping in on your dahlias, or they’re snuffing out your annual seedlings. Instead of dividing your aster varieties to limit their spread, you may also slice their outer regions with a spade. Using the sharp spade, dig down around the perimeter of the aster plant. Remove the cut stems, and put fresh potting soil or compost in their place. When to Divide Asters When to divide asters depends on how big or small they are, as well as the current season. Do this process every few years during the right season, and you’ll create an endless supply of aster plants to fill your garden with. Symptoms to Watch For Plants can’t talk, but they use their habits to converse with us! They’ll lose leaves, grow new stems, or droop in response to external factors. When perusing your asters, watch for these symptoms as indicators of division: Lack of flowers Dense growth Weak, limp stems Large clumps Rambling stems that fall on other plants These aren’t the only means for knowing when to divide. You may split up mature clumps so long as they’re large enough to give you multiple new plants. The Best Season As seasons change, so too do plants! They enter dormancy in response to cold, or they begin blooming as days lengthen and warm in spring. Asters are no different. They respond to the changing seasons by growing roots, blooming, or dying back. Fall and spring are great seasons for division when the weather is cool, mild, and moderate. Avoid dividing during summer or winter, as you’ll likely kill the plants in the process. The best season for division is spring, when the plants begin growing roots in response to warming temperatures and increased daylight. If it’s summer or fall, you may want to wait until the next spring to divide asters. Division Frequency How often you split up these perennials is another important consideration. They’re not indestructible! They need some time to grow and flourish before they’re ready for the division process. It’s good to divide asters every three to five years when the clumps grow large and dense. Avoid splitting them more often than once every three years. The perennials grow healthy roots and shoots in the off years, and they need this time to establish themselves after planting. How to Divide Asters So, let’s get to it! Dividing asters is an easy process with the right materials and guidelines. Grab a shovel and get ready to dig. Prepare The day before you want to divide, take a look at the site. Ensure the aster specimens are well-watered with moist, soft, and crumbly soil. Soft, moist soil is crucial for a smooth dividing process. If the ground is hard and compact, you’ll have trouble digging up the roots. Natural rainfall may keep the ground moist, but you’ll want to add water if the dirt is dry. Soak the site the night before you want to divide. Leave a hose on a low trickle for an hour, or run a sprinkler for the same amount of time. Now’s a good time to remove dead leaves, stems, and seed heads. Snipping off dead fluff will give you a clear view of your aster the next day. Set your tools nearby so you’re ready. You’ll need a shovel or trowel, a sharp knife, and potting soil or compost. Dig Up the Clump The following day, in the morning or afternoon, gather your supplies and prepare for digging. You’ll want to dig down a few inches away from the stems to ensure you get as many roots as possible. Make a circle around the plant. Then, dig underneath the roots a foot or deeper down. With your shovel underneath the aster roots, begin heaving the plant out of the ground. Save your back! Use your knees to lift, and plop the aster on its side above the ground. Shake some of the dirt off the plant to get a closer look at the roots. You don’t need to shake all the soil off, nor do you need to rinse it away. Retaining some soil will help the divisions rebound quickly after replanting. Divide the Clump Here’s the fun part! Dividing your asters requires careful attention and precision. You don’t want to remove too many roots, and you want to ensure the divisions have a good chance of surviving dissection and division. With your sharp knife or pruners, saw through the plants to separate them into two or more new sections. Ensure each piece has healthy roots and shoots; small ones may not survive replanting. Set the divisions aside in the shade if it’s cool, or set them in a bucket of water if it’s hot and dry. Prepare Planting Holes Once you have your divisions, it’s time to prepare new holes for planting. Some species grow in partial or dappled shade, while most varieties prefer full sun. Choose appropriate sites in the yard where your perennials will thrive. Dig holes for planting that are twice as wide and as deep as your asters’ rootballs. If the ground is hard, soak the soil first before digging. Set the dug-out soil aside for burying the roots later. Don’t mix potting soil or compost in the planting hole. This common practice may harm the roots in the long run. Use the garden’s native soil for planting instead. Plant New Divisions Gather your aster divisions and set each one in a planting hole. Cover their roots with the garden’s soil, and water the site well. If the dirt sinks below ground level, add some more of it to make the hole even with the surrounding area. After planting, it’s a good idea to cover the ground with an organic mulch. Mulch decays over time, creating a perfect home for tender roots and soil microbes. Compost is one of the best mulches, though you may also use leaf mold, straw, or fallen leaves. And that’s all there is to it! Your new asters will need some care for three to five years, after which they’ll be ready for another round of dividing. Key Takeaways Anyone can divvy up asters! Simply start in spring, use a sharp knife, and set the starts up well with a proper planting. These techniques work well for propagating your perennial garden asters, no matter the species. American asters, like the Douglas aster, are excellent in the U.S. They feed wildlife with pollen, nectar, and seeds, and provide habitat for small creatures. There are three reasons for dividing: rejuvenation, propagation, and limiting spread. The best season for division is spring, after new growth occurs. Use compost after planting to set your asters up for success.
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You'll find tropical milkweed in many nurseries across the U.S., but it's not the best for your garden. Pollinator enthusiast Melissa Strauss explains why tropical milkweed can be harmful and offers alternatives to consider. Plants in the milkweed genus are the sole larval food of the Monarch butterfly. They’re wonderful nectar plants for most pollinators, and with many native species, an overall great garden plant. The exception to this, sadly, is the tropical milkweed species, which you shouldn’t grow in your North American garden. Since the 1980s, the Monarch butterfly population has declined by more than 95%. In the 1990s, millions of these beautiful insects migrated from Canada to Mexico. While it’s difficult to give an exact number of monarchs still making the trip, it’s estimated that fewer than 330,000 are still migrating as of 2024. We attribute this decline to several factors. Pesticide use is a significant problem, and climate change plays a substantial role. The loss of their breeding habitats and the decrease in milkweed supply are also contributing factors. It seems natural that gardeners would want to plant as much milkweed as possible. Sadly, many retailers carry only one species of milkweed, Asclepias curassavica. This species is native to Central and South America, but not North America. The good news is that there are more than 60 species that are native to North America. It’s more challenging to find these native species, but many smaller nurseries are making an effort. If you look in the right places or grow it from seed, it’s not difficult to incorporate native species into your garden. There are several ecological and conservation-related reasons why you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed. Let’s talk about why it’s better to seek out native species than to plant this one. It may be easier to find, but it’s worth searching for a better alternative, like one of these native species: Potentially Invasive The most obvious reason you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed is its potential to become invasive. This species is popular in gardens for its vibrant flowers and its ability to attract monarch butterflies. However, it has a significant invasive potential in the United States. Unlike native species that will die back in winter, tropical milkweed can stick around year-round in warm climates. This is particularly an issue in the southern United States. Tropical milkweed is not officially classified as invasive in most parts of the U.S. However, it’s listed as potentially invasive and ecologically disruptive. Asclepias curassavica is an aggressive spreader. It can potentially outcompete native species, which is, again, never a good thing. It’s a crucial reason you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed. Disrupts Monarch Migration The monarch butterfly migration is a remarkable natural phenomenon in the insect world. Every year, monarchs travel thousands of miles from their breeding grounds in Canada and the United States. They migrate from here to their overwintering sites in central Mexico, and then back north in the spring. This round-trip migration is multi-generational. The butterflies that begin the process are not the same ones that will return. In late summer to early fall, a super generation emerges. These butterflies are larger and longer-lived than their parents. This super generation has to make the 3,000-mile trek from specific locations in the U.S. to the forests of the transvolcanic mountains of Mexico. Here they cluster together in the fir trees in a cool, high-altitude microclimate. Their metabolism slows, which conserves energy. In the spring, this super generation mates and lays eggs on milkweed plants before dying. Their offspring begin the migration northward. So, how does this relate to the idea that you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed in the United States? Tropical milkweed is what they eat in the spring. Eaten at the wrong time, it has the potential to disrupt their natural migratory cues. They may breed out of season instead of migrating. This can result in their overwintering in unsuitable environments, where they are unable to survive. Undermines Conservation Efforts In recent years, scientists, government agencies, non-profits, gardeners, and farmers have been working together on conservation efforts. The goal is to protect monarchs, one of North America’s most iconic butterflies. The goal of these efforts is to increase the availability of native milkweed and nectar plants. By planting and sustaining these plants along migratory routes and in breeding grounds, they hope to increase the population. It involves restoring grasslands and prairie ecosystems. Part of the process is removing invasive species. Efforts are made to distribute native milkweed seeds and create monarch waystations. Here, monarchs have habitats that support both feeding and reproduction. Also involved is the removal of tropical milkweed in warm climates. Organizations continue to track migratory patterns and population sizes. Other priorities include disease monitoring and reducing the use of neonics and other pesticides. They’re also under review for protection under the U.S. Endangered Species Act. Canada and Mexico join forces with the United States in conservation efforts. The cooperative trilateral efforts include the protection of breeding grounds. Additionally, efforts include migrating and overwintering sites. With all of these essential works in progress, you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed. Planting tropical milkweed is counterproductive to conservation efforts. While it may bring monarchs to the garden, it ultimately undermines these efforts. Over time, it contributes to their overall decline. Spreads OE Disease Finally, there is a strong link between this plant and the spread of OE disease (short for Ophryocystis elektroscirrha). This is a harmful parasite that affects monarch butterflies. It’s a significant reason you shouldn’t grow tropical milkweed in North America. OE is a microscopic protozoan parasite that infects butterflies that feed on infected plants. This includes monarchs, as well as other species that use it as a nectar source. Native species die back in the winter, which breaks the parasite’s lifecycle. In warmer climates, tropical milkweed doesn’t die back. Unless pruned, the OE spores continue to accumulate. Since California and Florida are integral to their migration, this is particularly harmful. Remember when I mentioned that this plant can interrupt the migratory behaviors of these butterflies? They sometimes stick around because it continues to bloom late in the fall. The result is that more breeding generations are exposed to OE-contaminated plants. Butterflies become infected and shed spores onto other plants with which they come into contact. Since milkweed is their larval host, the caterpillars then feed on the infected leaves. They ingest the spores, becoming infected in the process. One solution to this is to cut back your plants in the fall. Then, clean up any leaf litter and stems to reduce further contamination. However, we really shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed to begin with. It’s best to pull it up before it goes to seed. Appropriate Alternatives As I mentioned earlier, there are a significant number of milkweed species that are native to the U.S. I find many of these to be just as lovely as the tropical species, some even more so. By planting these milkweed seeds, you contribute to the conservation of these important butterflies. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a visually striking species that closely resembles A. curassavica. Its tall stems culminate in umbels of bright orange flowers. This species is native to all of the eastern and central United States, as well as California. Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) is my personal favorite. It’s native to most of the United States except for the West Coast and Louisiana. It’s a lush plant that’s tolerant of a wide range of environments. The blooms are small and pink, and plentiful. Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) is tall with finely textured foliage. It has a delicate and airy feeling that looks beautiful in the garden. This is native to the eastern and central United States, as well as New Mexico and Arizona. Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a striking, broadleafed species. It’s large and produces significant clusters of gorgeous pink blooms. The flowers on this species aren’t terminal; they bloom along the entire stem. It’s also native to the eastern and central United States, as well as Oregon and Utah. There are more than 60 species that are native to the United States, and they’re all lovely. They also all serve as food for monarchs and their larvae. If you want to add milkweed to your garden and help with conservation efforts, choose a native species. It may be easier to find, but you shouldn’t plant tropical milkweed.
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Black-eyed Susans are wonderful native plants that look beautiful and attract a multitude of pollinators. Among the many varieties, 'Cherokee Sunset' is one of the prettiest cultivars. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to grow this wonderful summer and fall flower. Black-eyed Susans are an excellent plant to have around, and ‘Cherokee Sunset’ is a particularly special cultivar. They are wonderfully adaptable and attract a wide range of pollinators. They make wonderful companions in the vegetable garden, and they self-sow freely, multiplying year after year. Growing this plant is easy and straightforward, and quite rewarding. They’re also native to most of North America, making them beneficial to the ecosystem and local wildlife. Of the many varieties, ‘Cherokee Sunset’ black-eyed Susans are one of the prettiest. What Is It? ‘Cherokee Sunset’ black-eyed Susan is an eye-catching, ornamental variety loved for its boldly hued blooms. This dramatically beautiful cultivar is an incredibly prolific bloomer and a pollinator’s dream. It’s wonderful for the cutting garden and is the recipient of a Fleuroselect Award. It also won an All-America Selections award in 2002. Characteristics When it comes to special varieties of classic flowers, ‘Cherokee Sunset’ is at the top of the list. This black-eyed Susan cultivar has the same velvety stems and foliage as the original. This characteristic protects its flowers from ants. It’s a medium-sized variety that’s typical in all respects except for its flowers. Where the standard for this species is a cheerful yellow single bloom with a dark eye, this one is bolder. The flowers are double-petaled and, rather than the run-of-the-mill, solid yellow, they come in a range of warm shades. This ideal autumn flower has excellent variation between blooms. Some are orange, some brown, some yellow, but most are a melange of colors. All have a signature, dark chocolate center where you’re likely to find a native bee or two. Native Area The species, Rudbeckia hirta, is native to a significant portion of North America. It spans from one coast to the other, and from Florida well north into Canada. When it comes to their environment, these are adaptable and tolerant. You will find black-eyed Susans in prairies, meadows, open woodlands, and on rocky slopes. They grow in both moist and dry soil types. They are commonly used in the restoration of disturbed areas. Planting The ideal planting times are in the fall, before the first frost, or in spring, after the last frost. In mild climates, fall planting is preferable, as it results in earlier flowering and better reseeding. In cooler climates, it’s wise to start your seeds about six weeks ahead of the last frost date for a better and longer bloom time. While you can grow these in a container, they tend to grow larger when planted in the ground. These plants require about one foot to 18 inches of space between them, in loose, well-drained soil.
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In dry, temperate areas, gardeners look for border plants that shine from spring through fall. 'Ballerina Red' Armeria is the perfect candidate! Follow along as experienced gardener and master naturalist Sarah Jay details how to grow this carefree plant. Gardeners along coastlines and in rockier areas sometimes struggle to find perennials that can handle all the salt spray and low soil nutrients. Armeria pseudarmeria is one choice that won’t promote a struggle or regret. As a first-year flowering perennial, this species is a great choice. With numerous cultivars available, it can be hard to choose. But the striking ‘Ballerina Red’ armeria is preferred in areas that need a little extra color, and punctuated blooms from spring through summer. Walkways, borders, and edges are perfect places for these crimson blooms. Armeria – regardless of the species or variety – is typically a low-maintenance plant, even in extreme conditions. The only thing to avoid is high fertility. Otherwise, these plants practically take care of themselves. What Is It? The most common armeria cultivated in North America is Armeria maritima. This plant and all members of the Armeria genus are commonly known as thrifts or sea pinks, alluding to their ability to pop off in harsh conditions. They are also called lady’s pincushions due to their rounded structure. Armerias thrive in rough, rocky areas in and around the Mediterranean. This natural range has led them to become a favored plant for waterwise gardening in coastal and generally rough regions. Armeria pseudarmeria is no exception. Characteristics Most members of the Armeria genus have a similar structure. They are small, clumping evergreen plants with lance-shaped leaves. They have compound, ball-shaped blooms in varying colors, ranging from white to pink, all the way to deep purple and red. These have a full flush of flowers in spring, and then bloom sporadically through summer and fall. Ballerina red armeria has deep red blooms and a stature that reaches under one foot tall, making it great for planting anywhere lower-stature plants fit in. Unlike other species, this armeria blooms in the first year, rather than the second. The fronds and blooms are salt and sun-tolerant, providing color through the elements in coastal areas. Native Area Armeria pseudarmeria is native to Portugal, along its rocky coastline. Seaside cliffs, rocky slopes, and salt marshes are its home. Thriving in areas that could be either consistently moist or completely dry, this plant takes the extremities like a champ. Along its native range, A. pseudarmeria thrives in highly sunny sites with poor fertility. The marshes and coastal places this plant is from lack trees, and are therefore susceptible to intense winds, and unhindered sunlight. ‘Ballerina Red’armeria is a cultivated plant developed alongside other cultivars in the ‘Ballerina’ series. These were selected from the wilds of Portugal and introduced into gardens as xeriscaping became a more popular mode of gardening. ‘Red’ was a Fleuroselect Gold Medal awardee in 2009. Planting As mentioned, ‘Ballerina’ Red Armeria is perfect for garden borders, particularly in water-wise and xeriscaped gardens. Coastal gardens benefit from the salt tolerance and short stature that enables them to withstand high winds. In-ground plantings should have rocky or sandy soils, whereas container plantings should have soil with excellent drainage.
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Rudbeckia triloba, or brown-eyed Susan, brings lively color with vibrant blooms from summer through frost. The North American native makes a sunny addition to a naturalized landscape. It attracts pollinators, and needs little tending to thrive. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores the merits of the easy-going wildflower with high color late in the season. Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia triloba) brings waves of sunny yellow flowers that brighten the summer and fall landscape. Cold-hardy, heat-tolerant, and rugged, the native wildflower thrives across growing conditions. R. triloba is similar to its well-known relative, black-eyed Susan (R. hirta), but is taller and has smaller flowers that emerge in profusion later in summer with a longer bloom time. Rudbeckia triloba is low-maintenance and adapts to various conditions and soil types. Drought-tolerant once established, it needs little tending to put on a big show from July to October, depending on the climate. Pollinators appreciate the late infusion of nectar and pollen, while songbirds forage on seeds in fall and winter. For lively color in the border, bouquet, or dried arrangement, brown-eyed Susan shakes away the weariness of late summer. What is Rudbeckia triloba? Rudbeckia triloba is a short-lived perennial or biennial with ray flowers. The blanket of bright yellow blooms adds color in late summer until hard frost. Common names include brown-eyed Susan, thin-leaved coneflower, and three-lobed coneflower. The natives spend the first year developing roots and leafy growth and may produce some flowers. In the second year, full-flowering glory sweeps in before they fade. With easy reseeding, spring yields a successional crop of color. Rucbeckia triloba is at home in the ornamental border and in native, wildflower, pollinator, rock, and cottage gardens. They’re showy en masse, which is easy to achieve with ready reseeding. They also make a vibrant addition to fresh florals that last a long time in the vase. Brown-eyed Susan is a host plant for the silvery checkerspot butterfly (Chlosyne nycteis) and supports other pollinators and beneficial insects with their pollen and nectar. Songbirds, especially American goldfinches, forage on the seeds in the cool season. Characteristics Late summer and fall see a blanket of golden daisy blooms, persisting until hard frost. Multibranched stems create the all-over bloom coverage as they rise above basal leaves. Allowed to spread without other plants nearby, the bushy mounds reach four feet wide. Each bright bloom measures one to three inches across and appears in a mass at full bloom. Short, flat, and wide, the petite flowers hold 8 to 12 rays. Black button centers fade to dark purple-brown before producing seeds and drying. The dark green basal leaves have three divided oval lobes (hence the species name triloba). The leafy rosettes may persist through winter as an evergreen groundcover. Cluster brown-eyed Susan with other perennials to support the tall stems in flower. They pair beautifully with ornamental grasses and with other blooms like aster, monarda, echinacea, columbine, lupine, and amsonia. Native Area R. triloba is native to the Midwest and Eastern regions of the U.S., from New York to Florida and west to Minnesota, Texas, and Utah. Its natural habitat is moist, open woods, fields, along streams, and on rocky slopes. With hardiness across USDA zones 3 through 9, the perennials bear good heat and cold tolerance in wide-ranging growing situations. Planting The wildflowers reseed to expand the colony and fill a space given the chance. Space them 12 to 18 inches apart to allow ample air circulation while presenting a dense display of the basal leaves and multi-branched stems. In windy or shady zones, the tall stems may need support to keep from falling over. While they can reach five feet, two to three feet is more common.
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Nemesia is a low-growing flowering plant that works well as a colorful filler for containers and garden beds. Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to plant and care for this unique flower. If you’re looking for a new flowering plant for window boxes, raised beds, and ornamental gardens, check out nemesia. This plant is less common than petunias, impatiens, and other summer annuals, so it will add a new layer of interest to your garden. Nemesia plants only grow a few feet tall and become covered with flowers shortly after the weather warms. That makes them an excellent plant for adding a pop of color to late spring and early summer gardens. The plants can continue blooming throughout the summer if you choose a heat-tolerant variety and plant them in a location that’s protected from harsh afternoon sun. I’ll cover how to grow nemesia so it provides you with beautiful and long-lasting flowers. You’ll learn how to select the right growing location, choose a variety that suits your needs, and address common problems. What Is Nemesia? Nemesia is a genus of flowering plants that consists of around 70 different species. You can find various species available for sale at garden centers, but Nemesia strumosa and Nemesia caerulea are the most commonly available species. Numerous hybrids also exist and make up some of the newest cultivars. Nemesia plants are also known as cape jewels or pouch nemesia. Characteristics Some nemesia species are tender perennials, and others are annuals. Regardless, most growers treat all types of nemesia as annuals and replant them each year. The varieties commonly grown in stores typically grow between one and two feet tall. They produce multiple stems from the base of the plant, leading to a short yet bushy appearance. Each stem is covered with slender, lance-shaped leaves that appear in pairs. The top of the stems eventually becomes covered with two-lipped flowers that slightly resemble snapdragon blooms. When the plants are in full bloom, the base of the plant is almost hidden by the flowers. The flowers vary in color depending on the variety and come in colors including purple, yellow, pink, and orange. Sometimes, the upper and lower lips are the same color, and other times, they’re two different hues. Native Area All types of nemesia are native to South Africa. They often grow in well-drained soils or in sandy and rocky coastal areas. Planting You can grow nemesia from seed or transplants. Some hybrid varieties are only available as seedlings, so transplanting is your only option for these types of nemesia.
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After lilies produce their beautiful flowers, their blooms fade and begin to set seed. Join flower farmer Briana Yablonski to learn if you should trim these faded lily blooms. Lilies are some of the most stunning garden flowers. Whether you plant a row of daylilies to bring a pop of color to a woodland border or have a few Asiatic lilies growing in pots, you probably hope to enjoy these flowers for as long as possible. Even if your plants are healthy and loaded with flowers, these trumpet-shaped blooms will eventually fade and wither. That begs the question of whether you should leave these old flowers on the plant or trim them. I’ll cover whether or not you should trim faded lily blooms so you can keep your lilies healthy and producing for as long as possible. The Short Answer While you don’t have to trim faded lily blooms, doing so will allow the plant to send its energy towards growth and flower production. Plus, it will keep the plants looking tidy and reduce the likelihood of decay and fungal growth. Use a pair of pruning shears to remove the old flowers as soon as they begin to droop and change color. The Long Answer There’s no harm in removing old lily blooms, but learning a bit more about the benefits and steps of this process can help you determine if it’s worth completing. I’ll cover some reasons why you should trim faded lily blooms and further explain how and when to deadhead the old flowers. Why Trim Faded Lily Blooms? When you look at lilies from a human perspective, the flowers are the main attraction. The large, trumpet-shaped blooms brighten up woodland edges, serve as focal points in bouquets, and provide color throughout the summer. And with so many different lily varieties to choose from, it’s easy to find a few that you like. Plants view flowers differently. The whole goal of the flower is to encourage the pollination that’s required for seed set. Once the flowers are pollinated, the plants can start the energy-intensive process of seed production in order to carry on their genetics. Removing old lily flowers will prevent the plants from sending their limited energy and nutrients toward seed production. They can then focus on other tasks, like producing new flowers that you can enjoy. Trimming faded lily flowers also limits the likelihood that the plants will develop rot. Old flowers become soft and moist, which encourages fungi to colonize the limp, brown flowers. Removing these flowers reduces the likelihood of disease occurrence. How to Trim Faded Lily Blooms Trimming faded lily blooms is easy. First, locate old blooms. You can trim the blooms as soon as they become wilted and begin to change color. Grab a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears and locate the ideal cutting site. Some lilies, like daylilies, form a small cluster of flowers on long, slender stems. Others produce a larger number of flowers atop sturdier stems. Regardless of which type of lily you’re growing, trim the faded flower’s peduncle. This is the small stem that attaches the flower to the rest of the plant. Cut at a clean angle to encourage quick healing and allow the plant to continue producing new flowers. How Often to Deadhead Lilies While deadheading lilies every couple of days is ideal, don’t sweat it if you can only complete this task once a week. Your overarching goal is to remove the flowers before they begin forming seeds. Since daylily flowers only last a day, don’t worry about removing the flowers as soon as they die. Instead, you can wait until all of the flowers on a single stalk have faded, then trim back the entire stem. Continue trimming back the dead blooms until the plants stop producing new flowers. At the end of the growing season, you can trim back the stems to the ground. Should You Trim Peace Lily Blooms? Peace lilies aren’t true lilies, which explains why they look different from common garden lilies. Instead, these houseplants are perennials that are members of the Spathiphyllum genus. So, if they aren’t true lilies, should you still trim their faded blooms? Yes, you should remove faded peace lily blooms to encourage the plant to produce new flowers. Peace lily flowers often last weeks or even months, but they’ll eventually fade. The flowers will die back on their own, but you can trim the faded blooms to keep the plant tidy and allow it to focus on producing new growth.
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Queen Lime zinnias are a special series with soft, sophisticated colors. They may not be as flamboyant as some of their more colorful counterparts, but we love them. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss growing these special zinnias. Zinnias are a favorite of mine; I say it time and time again. If there is one flower I will plant every year without fail, it’s the zinnia. This powerhouse annual truly does it all. The ‘Queen Lime’ series is a unique and beautiful one. Zinnias are vigorous growers and producers of large, lovely flowers. Their long, strong stems make them an excellent choice for the cutting garden. They’re also an excellent addition to the pollinator patch with their flat, accessible, nectar-rich flowers. These flowers are incredibly easy to grow and have a great payoff for the effort invested. If you like to see butterflies in the garden, these will make it happen. They bloom throughout the summer and fall, right up to your first frost. What Is It? ‘Queen Lime’ zinnias are a group best known for their subtle, beautiful, and sophisticated colors. Most varieties get recognition for their bold, bright colors. These have a quiet loveliness that is best enjoyed up close and personal. They are excellent for the cutting garden, where you will want to add them to every bouquet. Characteristics ‘Queen Lime’ zinnias are medium to large-sized plants that can reach heights of nearly four feet. If you pinch them and cut them often, they will grow into lovely, shrubby plants that look lovely in mixed flower beds. They have strong, slim stems and slightly fuzzy foliage. The main draw for this particular series is the color of the blooms. There are four recognized varieties, but I’ve seen several others pop up in recent years. The classic ‘Queen Lime’ zinnia is a lime green cultivar; its petals are bright and cool. When combined with other colors, the results are charming and nostalgic. The lime green shade overlaid with pink, peach, red, yellow, and orange becomes a group of earthy, muted hues. They have a vintage appeal and blend well with almost any color combination. Native Area Zinnia elegans is native to parts of Central and North America, including Mexico and the southwestern United States. They grow in semi-arid, warm climates with moderate rainfall. ‘Queen Lime’ is a cultivated series that works well in the same climates as its wild predecessor. Planting The ideal time to plant zinnias is in the spring, as soon as the ground is warm enough for them to germinate (about 65°F or 18°C). You can start them earlier indoors, but they grow best if you plant them right in the garden. ‘Queen Lime’ is a medium-sized plant that requires about 18″-24″ of space to spread. You can succession sow them throughout the season, as they will continue to bloom until the first frost.
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Zinnias make an excellent addition to the summer cutting garden. They are sturdy plants that produce a great volume of large, colorful flowers. Join cut flower gardener Melissa Strauss for tips on making your cut zinnias last as long as possible. Zinnias are one of my all-time favorite flowers for the cutting garden. Not only are they big, bright, and beautiful, but they also have a great vase life. With long, slender stems and their excellent production rate, it’s no wonder they are so popular. If you’re growing them, you’ll want to know how to make your cut zinnias last as long as possible. A zinnia’s vase life is variable, depending on how you cut and care for it. The average vase life of these flowers is about 5-7 days. However, with proper care, you can make them last up to 10 days. I’ve even had them last for two weeks! Along with their long vase life, other qualities make zinnias great cut flowers. They are fast growers, blooming in as few as 50-60 days after planting. You can directly sow them, so they require little effort to get them started. They also produce a ton of flowers per plant. Naturally, with all of these remarkable qualities, this is a common selection for the cutting garden. If you handle them well, you’ll have beautiful bouquets throughout the summer, and often through the fall as well. If you want your cut zinnias to last, there are a few simple tricks to cutting and caring for them. Cut at the Right Time When I say to cut them at the right time, I’m talking about two distinct factors. That is, the right time for the plant, and the right time of day. First, let’s talk about the stage of development that is ideal for cutting if you want to make those cut zinnias last. Some flowers in the cutting garden are good for cutting in the bud stage. Roses and peonies, for example, fall into this category. This is ideal for flowers that continue to open after you’ve cut them. Zinnias, on the other hand, do not continue to open after cutting, so this is a bad idea. You want to wait until the flowers are fully open and the stem is stiff and strong. If you see a fully open bloom and are unsure about the stem, you can perform the ‘wiggle test.’ Gently shake the stem back and forth. If the stem, near the flower, remains stiff, it’s ready to cut. If, on the other hand, the flower wobbles around on a weak stem, leave it be. Factors that contribute to strong stems include pinching the young plants to encourage strong branches. Adequate sunlight and watering are also factors. Direct sowing your seeds will cause them to be stronger in general and more firmly rooted. The time of day that you do your harvesting is also important. Your zinnias will be at their strongest and freshest first thing in the morning. This is when they’re fully hydrated and haven’t been wilting in the hot sun all day. It’s ideal to water your zinnias early in the morning, give them an hour to absorb the moisture, and then cut them. Aim to cut before 9 a.m. for the freshest, most hydrated flowers. Prepare Your Vase Early When I cut flowers from my cutting garden, I prefer to take a jar of water along. This way, I can place the stems directly in the water, immediately after cutting them. Prep your vase ahead of time, even if it only takes you ten minutes to do your cutting. Zinnias like a bit of lukewarm water initially. Your stems will absorb cold water, but they will do so more slowly. By giving water at room temperature, or just slightly above, they will drink it quickly, keeping them well hydrated. Avoid using water that is too warm, as this can shock or damage them. Fill a jar or vase with clean, lukewarm, or room temperature water. Add some flower food for an extra boost. As you cut your zinnias, place them directly in the jar or vase. Leave them in this liquid for a few hours to allow your stems to take in as much as possible. Then, give all your stems a fresh cut when arranging them and place them in fresh water with flower food. Refresh Often The next important step is to change out your water often. Every one to two days is ideal, but at least every three. This is an area where I, admittedly, fall short of my best. But if you want to make your cut zinnias last as long as possible, it’s important. Old water is a breeding ground for bacteria. Once it gets in there, which it inevitably will, it will proliferate. That bacteria clogs up the ends of your stems, which reduces their ability to take in moisture. You’ll end up with slimy, rotting stems. Clean water keeps those stems fresh and open, allowing them to continue absorbing it. It helps prevent decay, allowing your flowers to stay fresh and vibrant for longer. It also keeps those stems stiff and standing upright. When you change out your water, remove the flowers and rinse out the vase thoroughly. Refill the vase with clean, fresh solution with plant flower food. Then, re-cut all the stems at a slight angle before returning them to the vase. Re-cutting the stems is essential because, over time, the ends seal over and stop absorbing moisture. Every time you give them a fresh cut, you make it possible for them to absorb more water. Cutting them at a slight angle increases the surface area available to absorb fresh water. Keep Them Cool Did you know that florists store their flowers in a cooler while they are awaiting arrangement? Then, they return the arrangements to the cooler until you are ready to pick them up. There are several important reasons for this. Cool temperatures inhibit the growth of bacteria. Bacteria thrive in warm, moist conditions, so keeping the water and surrounding air cool slows them down. Your flowers also wilt more slowly when you keep the air and water cool. They continue to breathe after cutting, and this process occurs more slowly in cooler temperatures. This helps to reduce moisture loss and aging, keeping your blooms hydrated and fresh. During the day, you’ll want to keep your flowers in a location where you can enjoy them. This isn’t always going to be the coolest room in the house. At night, you can move your flowers to a cooler room, such as a basement, garage, or refrigerator, to maintain their freshness for longer. Be cautious about refrigerators, as fruits release a gas that shortens the lifespan of your flowers. If you have a second fridge that you don’t use for storing fruit, this is perfect. Otherwise, the refrigerator is a bad idea. Stay Away From the Window Finally, to make cut zinnias last longer, keep them away from direct sunlight, such as near a window. This is even more important in the summer. Direct sunlight increases the temperature of both the air and the water around your flowers. It increases respiration, accelerating water loss and causing them to age faster. Warm water encourages bacteria to grow in the water, clogging stems and inhibiting water intake. Similarily, warm air causes the flowers to dehydrate faster. Warm air and direct sunlight will dry out delicate petals, causing them to wilt and fall sooner, which is exactly what we want to prevent. Apply this to the location in general. It’s not limited to windows. Always keep cut flowers away from heat sources. Appliances, such as the stove or a coffee pot, can put off heat and speed up the wilting process. Also, keep them away from ripening fruits, which emit ethylene gas. Key Takeaways Moisture and temperature play a central role in keeping your cut zinnias fresh for as long as possible. Place your stems in water immediately, and change the water often. Keeping your flowers in a cool spot, out of direct sunlight, and away from heating sources. These factors will extend the vase life and freshness of your cut zinnias by up to a week!
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