If you love camellias and want a summer bloomer, Japanese stewartia might be just what you're looking for. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to learn about this beautiful blooming tree nicknamed the false camellia. Imagine a beautiful white camellia that blooms in the summer. That is Japanese stewartia, a close relative of this favorite blooming evergreen, with a twist. Trees that offer interest during all four seasons are rare, and when we happen upon one, you’d better believe we want to know everything about it. Here is all you need to know about growing the stunning Japanese stewartia! What Is Japanese Stewartia? Japanese stewartia is a wonderful, large shrub or small tree that can grow into a quite imposing figure. It is similar to a camellia, and the flowers are nearly identical to some single-flowered varieties. It creates a striking figure in the landscape, with plenty to look at during all four seasons, quite a rarity. Characteristics Japanese stewartia is a deciduous tree that ranges from 12 to 40 feet tall, with a slightly smaller spread. It’s multi-stemmed and shrubby in habit, growing in a pyramidal to oval shape. The branches start low to the ground, and the ovate leaves have serrated margins, are medium green, and heavily textured. These plants leaf out in early spring before blooming between June and August. The flowers strongly resemble a single-petaled camellia bloom, with five creamy white petals and a crown of golden stamens in the center. They are small to medium-sized, at two to three inches in diameter. This tree diverges from its relatives in fall, when, rather than retaining evergreen foliage, the leaves change to vivid shades of red and orange. They add brilliance to the fall landscape before going dormant for the winter. In winter, with the foliage absent, the beautiful peeling bark reveals itself, adding interest to the cold, dreary months. The bark resembles that of a crape myrtle, with older grey strips peeling away to reveal shades of white and cinnamon underneath. Native Area This slow-growing tree is native to mountainous regions in Korea, mainly to the south, as well as areas of Japan. In the wild, they can reach heights of up to 60 feet, but in cultivation, they are typically shorter. Planting Spring and late summer to early fall are the best times to plant this tree, allowing it plenty of time to establish roots before winter. It thrives with some protection from heavy winds, and in hotter climates will need more shelter from the sun than in cooler areas.
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Do you want to grow a warm-climate tree with radiant spring blossoms? ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherry trees will fit the bill. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum shows you how to plant, grow, and care for these exciting flowering cherry trees. If you’ve been to Japan or Washington DC, you’ve probably heard of ‘hanami.’ This tradition translates as “flower viewing” and is a cultural practice in which groups of people picnic under cherry blossoms. Traditional ‘Okame,’ Yoshino, and Sakura varieties of flowering cherries have trouble growing in climates above zone 8 or 9. In warm regions of East Asia, such as Okinawa, Taiwan, and the Ryukyu Islands, you’ll find ‘Taiwan’ cherry trees more frequently. These deciduous cherries have bright pink blooms that take over entire hillsides and mountains. They prefer humid climates with long and hot summers and short, mild winters. If you live in a subtropical climate, try growing these majestic blooming cherries for incredible shows of color. Let’s dive into how to plant, grow, and care for ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherries, so you enjoy stunning winter blooms. What Is It? ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherry trees are popular ornamental trees in subtropical regions of East Asia. They produce gorgeous dark pink blossoms that appear between December and February. In the Ryukyu Islands of Japan, they’re the most prominent flowering cherry trees. When they bloom in mid-winter, they fill streets, parks, and homes with their colorful blooms. Characteristics Prunus campanulatas grow to be over 30 feet once they’re established. These deciduous trees flower in the winter and put on edible fruit in the late winter and early spring. The tart fruit is edible but is almost too small to enjoy. One of the most challenging parts about growing a ‘Taiwan’ cherry is the germination rates. Birds, squirrels, and other small animals feast on their fruits and scatter them over long distances. In New Zealand, they are seen as invasive, with some communities, such as Northland and North Island, banning them from nurseries. These flowering trees compete with native species in New Zealand, leading to new restrictions on growing them. Native Area These gorgeous trees are native to subtropical regions of East Asia, including Vietnam, Southern China, Taiwan, and Japan’s Ryukyu Islands. They thrive in zones 7 through 10 but grow in zones 11 and 12 as well. In their native habitat, you’ll see them growing in mountains, hillsides, and the borders of forests. They’re now most commonly found in public parks and gardens for their decorative flowers. Every winter, people come to picnic under their blooms in places such as Nago Central Park, in Okinawa. In the U.S., they grow particularly well in the Deep South, from northern Florida to South Texas. Some gardeners in Hawaii have had success planting them at higher elevations. Although they’re native to humid climates, many gardeners in Southern California have had success growing them. Planting These deciduous cherry trees are easy to plant and grow as long as they get enough sun and irrigation. Make sure the site is well-drained. If you get a lot of rainfall, consider planting them on a slope. This should prevent moisture from accumulating near their roots. In drier areas such as Southern California or West Texas, you’ll have to water them more frequently. Plant your ‘Taiwan’ cherry near entryways, streets, or anywhere you want to show off the magnificent blossoms. When selecting a site, make sure it’s away from other tall species. These cherries grow quickly and can become quite full and wide. Plant them away from other sun-loving plants.
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Magnolias are among the oldest flowering plants in the world. The saucer magnolia is a special hybrid that thrives in lawns, gardens, and large containers. Whether buying one for the first time or cultivating an old specimen, this guide has everything you need to know about saucer magnolias and their care. Ornamental trees are necessary additions to the garden. They act as focal points and backdrops, and some work well as living hedges! Saucer magnolias are some of the most striking ornamental flowering trees. In spring, they bloom giant, saucer cup-style flowers on naked branches. These magnolias are hybrid specimens. They descend from two other species, and nowadays, there are dozens of saucer varieties with different-colored blooms, varying heights, and unique habits. This ultimate selection provides ample choices for gardens, from large sunny yards to shady small sites. Though many magnolia trees are available, the saucer types are some of the most sought-after varieties. They’re popular for good reason. Plant one today to enjoy its blooms for the rest of your life! What Is It? Saucer magnolias are deciduous flowering trees that excel in temperate zones. They’re cold-hardy, tolerant of air pollution, and stunning in cultivated settings! Though not wild trees, they perform well with minimal maintenance and care during the growing season. Native Area Saucer magnolia trees come from the parents, Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora, which originate from central China. Because these descendants are hybrids, they rarely flee into wild environments. Instead, they stay within cultivated gardens without escaping. Seedlings may sprout but need cultivation and care to grow into mature trees. These hybrid trees tolerate conditions similar to those in central China. They grow well in temperate zones with regular seasons but they can thrive in USDA hardiness zone 9 with protection from the afternoon sun. Characteristics Some features will help you identify these hybrids. They have a single trunk, though some tend to sprout multiple thick branches from low on their trunk. You’ll see them with a single or multi-stem structure. The bark is slightly fragrant, emitting a soft smell when you crush, cut, or bruise the wood. The smooth, gray bark has light gray spots on mature specimens. In late winter and early spring, saucer-style blooms emerge from buds all over the trees’ canopies. They resemble tulips, which is why the species also goes by the common name “tulip tree.” The blooms are one way to tell these magnolias apart from others. They open up towards the sky and look like cups on saucers! They typically have nine petals that are wine red, white, pink, or purple. The color depends on the variety. The leaves are distinct from other types; they’re lush, green, and slightly lighter in color on the undersides. They’re oblong and have sharp points at their tips. Planting The best way to get a saucer magnolia in your garden is to find a potted tree at a local nursery. The saucer types are incredibly popular, and nurseries should have a few varieties available. You may also grow these trees from seeds, though the seedlings are unpredictable; they’ll grow differently than their parents.
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Lily magnolias are gorgeous shrubs and small trees that produce some of the prettiest flowers of spring. If you're thinking about planting one, read ahead as gardening expert Melissa Strauss gives the details on how to grow and care for these wonderful plants. Magnolias are a beautiful and enchanting group of plants that produce some of the most beautiful and fragrant flowers around. They are easy to care for and add much beauty and grace to the garden and landscape. While we commonly think of the evergreen types when we hear the name, there are stunning deciduous species, as well. Among them is the sweet and petite lily magnolia tree with its delicate beauty and understated charm. Let’s learn how to grow it! What Is a Lily Magnolia Tree? Lily magnolia is a species of shrub or small tree that falls into the Magnoliaceae family. This family includes both deciduous and evergreen species, each producing large, fragrant, beautiful flowers and broad, attractive foliage. Lily falls into the deciduous group, which typically produces a greater number of blooms, though they are usually smaller than their evergreen cousins. They are just as easy to care for and make a beautiful addition to any garden, even those smaller spaces where many trees can overwhelm. Characteristics Deciduous species in this family tend to be more compact than the full-sized evergreens. The lily magnolia has a lower growing habit that is more shrub-like, but you can train them into the form of a small tree with some early, selective pruning. Left to their own habits, they tend to be multi-trunked and grow to between eight and 12 feet tall, which makes them perfect for spaces where the larger species would be impractical. These deciduous plants spend the winter in dormancy, showcasing their smooth, gray bark and well-balanced branching shape. They naturally grow in a pleasing form and require little, if any, pruning for most of their lifespan. In spring, before their leaves grow back, large, fuzzy buds swell and break open into large, softly colored blooms. A mature plant can produce hundreds of blooms at one time, covering itself with gorgeous, goblet-shaped, pink and purple flowers that have a wonderful fragrance. The blooms face upwards, showcasing their attractive shape and highlighting the deeper color of the outer tepals. They are four to five inches long and can have anywhere from seven to 20 tepals or petals. The flowers have a citrus fragrance, not unlike the giant Southern magnolia. Soft, broad, green foliage follows as the flowers fall, making this an attractive addition to the summer landscape. While it is primarily a spring bloomer, a happy plant can continue to bloom sporadically in the summer. The leaves do change to bronze and yellow in the fall, but the colors are not typically noteworthy. Native Area Lily magnolia is native to southern and eastern China. It typically grows at forest edges, on slopes, and in moist but well-drained soil. It is flexible about light and soil type and handles more shade than most species. Planting The best time to plant deciduous magnolias depends on your climate, but always while it is dormant. In warmer climates, like zones 8 and 9, you can plant in late fall or in winter, as the soil stays workable in these regions in most cases. In cooler climates, wait until late winter or early spring as soon as you can work the soil.
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In this piece, Master Naturalist Sarah Jay discusses how to grow and care for ‘Forest Pansy’ Redbuds. Read on to learn how to include these stunning North American cultivars in your landscape. Redbud trees are some of the most interesting landscape specimens for a garden. As a native plant gardener I’m personally stoked to plant one in my yard! And I might just choose a ‘Forest Pansy’ redbud when the time comes. This cultivar is similar to the straight species with some notable differences. These trees are medium-sized, so you’ll need a bit of space to grow your own. But even a smaller yard will benefit from the presence of this stunning tree. If you’re wondering how to care for your own ‘Forest Pansy‘ redbud, we’ve got you covered! We’ll walk you through the process of planting and caring for one, and we’ll discuss what makes this cultivar different from the beloved native from which it originated. What Is It? Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ is a gorgeous spring bloomer that comes from the eastern North America native redbud tree. Both subsist in many different soils and can be planted outside their native range. Even better if they are planted within it, but they will survive in USDA zones 5-9. Like other redbuds, these are understory trees that thrive in forested areas. They can tolerate full sun in an open area, while the straight species is most commonly found in grasslands. The margins of forests and prairies are also great planting spaces for these trees. Characteristics This native is a perennial, deciduous tree with heart-shaped leaves and bright purple flowers—similar to the straight species. The beautiful blooms on this 15-to-30-foot tree develop in early spring and are a pollinator magnet, both as a host and a source of food. The southern blueberry bee (Habropoda laboriosa) is reliant on redbuds. As members of the Legume family, redbuds have nitrogen-fixing capabilities valued in food forestry. This capacity allows them to help other plants establish themselves, facilitating nutrient transfer between microbes in the soil. The genus Cercis comes from the Greek word kerkis, which refers to the resemblance of each seed pod to a weaver’s shuttle. These pods form in spring after the pea-like purplish-pink flowers bloom and are pollinated in spring. As the summer wears on, the seeds within the pods mature, and in fall, they dry. What distinguishes this tree from the eastern redbud is its ornamental appeal. Unlike its parent’s leaves, ‘Forest Pansy’ develops deep red leaves in spring. These fade to green by early summer and then turn fiery red and gold in autumn. The trunk of the tree is also quite sturdy. Both have a rounded form, which along with its foliage is appealing to those in need of a striking specimen. Native Area ‘Forest Pansy’ was a chance discovery at the McMinnville, Tennessee Forest Nursery. The nursery had established a name for itself as a source for redbuds. Either the owner of the nursery or the foreman found the tree growing among other young saplings in 1947. Redbuds thrive in the southeastern regions of North America from the Atlantic coast to Central Texas, where the terrain is typically forest or grassland. Unlike other varieties, eastern redbuds require moderate amounts of water, as their native range typically receives more rainfall. Planting Fall is the best time to plant a redbud, as this gives the tree plenty of time to develop roots before the following spring flowering. Spring is a close second but requires more care. Find a partial sun spot with at least 15 feet on all sides before you start the planting process. This ensures the best future for your Forest Pansy.
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Deciduous magnolias may not be as well known as their evergreen cousins, but they are no less beautiful. Star magnolia is a stunning tree that falls into this group. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to talk about planting and caring for your own star magnolia. If you’re looking for a magnolia tree that can handle the cold, this Japanese native is the perfect pick. It is low-maintenance, widely adaptable, and hardy down to a whopping -30°F (-34°C)! Unlike its southern magnolia relatives, star magnolia trees are hardy to zone 4 and come from mountainous regions. Growing up in tropical zone 11, I had no idea how beautiful any of the magnolia trees were. Certainly, I had seen photos of their large, creamy white blooms, but without seeing one in person, it’s hard to grasp the true beauty of a plant. When in college in North Florida, I first encountered the Japanese magnolia. I was smitten from the first look. One smaller subset species worth adding to the garden is the star magnolia tree or Magnolia stellata. Here’s how to grow this showstopper! What is a Star Magnolia Tree? Japanese magnolias are wonderful blooming trees that prefer mild climates. They are more cold-tolerant than the evergreen types, so you can grow them in a wider range of climate zones. These deciduous trees produce incredibly beautiful flowers in spring, soft, attractive foliage in summer, and they even offer a bit of fall color. They are relatively easy to care for and require only a modicum of maintenance once established. Characteristics This star of the garden is a flowering deciduous small tree or large shrub. Compact varieties of star magnolia trees may only reach 10 feet tall, while standard types may grow up to 25 feet at maturity. They are moderate growers, putting on between one and two feet per year, depending on their environment. In general, Japanese magnolia species are spring bloomers, though they vary by species. Star is an early bloomer, beginning in February, depending on the climate. The colder the climate, the later they bloom, up until about April. The flowers open from soft, fuzzy buds and look like large, white stars, which is where this species gets its name. The flowers are between one and four inches across and are usually pure white. A couple of cultivars have yellow undertones, and some have a touch of pink. Depending on the variety, they have between 7 and 30 petals and a light, pleasant fragrance. Rather than the rounded, tulip shape of other plants in the genus, these have elongated, straplike petals. Orange fruit cones develop over the summer and provide food for birds in the fall. They can have one or multiple trunks, depending on how you prune them while young. In general, they have more branching than other Japanese cultivars. The bark is attractive, lightly textured, and silvery gray. The foliage is soft and oblong. It changes to bronze in the fall, but it’s not particularly noteworthy in contrast to the spring blooming habit. Native Area Star magnolia trees are native to Japan, where they grow in the highlands of the island of Honshu. This part of the world has cool summers, cold winters, and quite a lot of snowfall. It’s a mountainous region, and higher elevations experience a greater fluctuation in climate. This species came to America in the 1860s. Planting The ideal time to plant a star magnolia tree is while it is still dormant. In late winter, before the buds break, dig a hole that is two to three times the width and as deep as your root ball. Choose a location with some shelter from the wind, as a late frost with strong winds can harm developing buds. Water the tree well before planting to hydrate it, which reduces shock. It’s a great idea to amend your soil with compost to give it an extra boost from the beginning. Position your root ball in the hole and backfill, then water it thoroughly. For the first three to six months, water it two to three times per week. Once established, continue to water weekly in the absence of rain for the next two years. Applying a layer of mulch around the base will help hold in moisture, which magnolias appreciate. Leave some space around the trunk to avoid fungus and pest infestation.
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Blue spruce trees add delightful pops of color to the garden. They’re evergreen conifers native to North America that love growing in our front and backyards. Join native plant gardener Jerad Bryant in learning to cultivate and care for blue spruce trees. Native conifers are essential additions to the garden. They provide year-round ornamental interest with needles, cones, and scaly gray bark. The branches provide habitat space for birds, squirrels, and small mammals. The cones feed hungry birds and squirrels, while the flowers offer valuable resin for nest-building bees. Not only are blue spruces valuable for wildlife, but they’re also easy trees to care for. They perform well in their native range without additional care. They’ll need some maintenance if you grow them outside their preferred habitat, although they’ll grow more drought-tolerant and frost-hardy as they mature. Blue spruce, or Colorado spruce, is perfect for native plant gardens, living fences, or specimen plantings. It’ll slowly extend over 50 feet tall with a wide base, filling bare sites with lovely evergreen foliage. Rather than traditional conifer green, go for the bright gray-blue of the blue spruce tree! What Is It? Blue spruce is an evergreen conifer, meaning it keeps its bright blue needles on its stems throughout the year. It starts as a young sapling and slowly matures into a large, towering tree. Native Area Blue spruces originate in mountainous regions from Montana to Mexico. They grow water-preserving needles at high altitudes to conserve moisture when it’s scarce. You’ll find them growing wild in Wyoming, Colorado, and Montana. They’re the official state tree of Colorado! Although blue spruce is a western conifer, it thrives in cool sites from USDA hardiness zones 2 through 7. I see these evergreen trees growing in yards throughout my region of the Pacific Northwest in zone 8. So long as you provide consistent moisture and avoid excessive summer heat, you can cultivate blue spruce in your garden. Characteristics Spruces, or trees in the genus Picea, share some of the same traits. These conifers grow spiny, evergreen needles that attach to the stems on pegs known as sterigmata. The pegs persist on the stems long after the needles fall off, and you can use them to help you identify this tree from firs or pines. Blue spruces have characteristic blue-green needles. They emerge bright blue at first and fade to a dull green. In the nursery trade, species used for propagating and selling are bright blue specimens under the name Picea pungens var. glauca. These retain their blue color better than most wild trees do. Spruces sprout decorative cones that mature throughout the year. Blue spruces sprout bright red-purple cones that mature to a light brown. The cones hang onto the tree while they release seeds below when conditions are favorable for germination. Some large cones reach up to ten inches long! Because spruces are wild trees, they grow to epic proportions in their native range. You can expect blue spruce to reach between 30 and 60 feet tall when it’s mature. It’ll hold onto the lower branches, creating a pyramidal structure reminiscent of Christmas tree shapes. Planting You’ll find these trees available as potted saplings in nurseries throughout North America. Although sold in eastern states, they perform best in regions near their native range, or cold climates from zones 2 through 7. Consider choosing a different spruce that’s local to your area if you garden in warm regions of the Southeast.
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Small, compact, and pyramidal, dwarf Alberta spruces add formal structure and bright green foliage to the garden. Plant one as a specimen and watch it grow alone, or situate multiple in a row to create a natural fence. Join former nursery tree grower Jerad Bryant in learning how to grow and care for these miniature spruces. Whether you’re looking for a stately tree to stand alone or a small specimen to plug into empty sites, the dwarf Alberta spruce tree is the one for you. It’ll reach up to 13 feet tall in maturity after growing for over 30 years. It’ll stay a short, shrubby tree, hovering between six and eight feet tall most of its life. You can find these trees as short shrubs in one-gallon containers; plant them, and you’ll enjoy watching them mature for decades. Larger trees are available, too, and they are better for specimen plantings or living fences that call for tall plants. No matter which size you choose, you’ll enjoy watching your tree grow into its home. These spruces form wide bases with lower branches, creating picturesque Christmas tree shapes. Decorate them outdoors for holiday cheer, or consider caring for one in a container and moving it indoors for the holidays. What Is It? Dwarf Alberta spruce is a cultivar of the white spruce, a large coniferous tree native to large swaths of North America. ‘Conica’ is a variety that J.G. Jack and Alfred Rehder discovered growing in Alberta, Canada in 1904. It’s the original dwarf white spruce, and plant breeders often use it to create new, better-performing cultivars for the landscape. Native Area White spruce, Picea laxa, is native to North America from parts of Canada through the northern U.S. It grows where summers are cool and winters are cold in mountainous areas. It dislikes intense heat during the summertime, and it needs frigid frosts during the winter to perform well. ‘Conica’ is a variety of Picea laxa. It originates from Alberta, Canada, although it’ll perform well throughout USDA hardiness zones 3 through 6. If you live in zones 7 or 8, try growing this tree with afternoon shade to protect it from harsh summer heat. It’s marginally hardy in these warm zones. Characteristics Dwarf Alberta spruces are not only smaller than white spruces, but they also have unique foliage that differs from the species! You’ll see star-like clusters of needles open from buds in early spring. Buds and fresh needles are edible, tasting like citrus, pine, and fresh greens. Chop them in salads, or try brewing tea with the needles. Unlike white spruces that tower over 70 feet tall, dwarf spruce trees rarely reach over 13 feet tall, and they take many years to grow this tall. Give them ample space near their base, as their lower branches grow wide in time. Like white spruces, these dwarves live long lives, often growing for over 50 years in gardens and landscapes. Planting Planting these spruces is an easy task. You’ll prepare a hole, loosen the tree’s roots, and plant it in the hole. Transplanting ‘Conica’ is best during spring or fall, when temperatures are mild and moisture is abundant. These trees are forms of the white spruce, meaning they’re not available as seeds. Find them as cuttings or potted plants online or at a local garden nursery.
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Are you curious about these small native trees and their sweet, custardy fruits? If you’ve never seen or tasted a pawpaw, you’re in for a treat. In this article, native plant expert Liessa Bowen introduces the pawpaw tree and all the basics you’ll need to know so you can grow your own! I have to admit, I’ve been a huge fan of pawpaw trees since I was a little kid. It may have started with a song about “Little Suzie” who went “Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch” to pick a bunch of pawpaws and put them in her pocket. I always imagined she had really big pockets that were loaded down with wild fruits. When I saw my first pawpaw tree growing in the wild, I’m sure I went wild with glee to finally taste these delicious fruits for myself. Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are native to the central and eastern United States and provide great value to the home landscape. In their native habitat, you’ll see them in moist woodlands and woodland edges. As a landscaping plant, they are a welcome addition to an edible landscape, wildlife-friendly habitat, or native garden. Growing a pawpaw tree successfully starts with a favorable habitat with moist soil and a bit of sunlight. These trees may require a bit of pampering to get them securely settled in a new home. Once established, however, you’ll find pawpaw trees to be hardy and easy to grow. As a small tree, pawpaws are versatile. These low-maintenance trees provide edible fruits, ornamental foliage, unusual flowers, and plenty of year-round interest. You won’t get fruits with a single tree, so if you’re considering growing pawpaws for their fruits, you’ll need to plant at least two. Now let’s dig in to some details and you’ll soon be ready to plant and grow your own grove of pawpaw trees. Plant Natural History Pawpaw trees are native to North America. Their range includes southeastern Canada, south to Florida, and west to Texas. These trees typically grow in moist, deciduous forests, along streams, and near wetlands where they get plenty of regular soil moisture and also plenty of shade. As long as there have been people in the Americas, people have been eating pawpaws. These trees produce an abundance of sweet fruits that are edible raw, making them easily accessible to anyone to simply harvest and eat. As plant growers became interested in these native fruits, they started breeding them to form a number of cultivars, some of which are available commercially. Characteristics The common pawpaw is a deciduous, fruit-bearing tree that grows 15 – 30 feet tall. These trees develop a single main trunk with smooth, gray bark. They are sparsely branched and develop a pyramidal form with lower branches tending to be longer and more pendulous than upper branches. Pawpaw leaves are uniformly bright green with smooth edges. They are oblong and narrower at the base closest to the stem and broadest at the pointed tip. The leaves hang gently downwards for a slightly floppy appearance. In the fall, these leaves turn attractive shades of yellow and orange before dropping for the winter. They bloom in the spring. Their flowers are a bit unusual. Each flower measures one to three inches across and has six distinct yet overlapping brownish-maroon petals. The three outer petals are larger and form an overall triangular shape with the three smaller petals forming a central, smaller triangular shape. Each flower has both male and female parts but they are not self-fertile. You’ll need at least two different pawpaw trees for cross-pollination and fruit production. The fruits ripen in mid to late summer in the south and late summer to early fall in more northern climates. Pawpaw fruits can be up to six inches long and look somewhat like an oblong pear. Their smooth skins ripen from green to yellowish-green, sometimes with harmless brown spots appearing on ripe fruits. The skin is soft and easily bruised. Ripe fruits have a tender yellowish inner flesh. They have a sweet flavor often described as a cross between a banana and a mango. The texture is smooth and custardy rather than crispy or crunchy. Each mango fruit typically contains several large, smooth, flat, black seeds. The pulpy part of the fruit is fully edible when ripe. The skin and seeds are not edible. Fruit Formation and Harvest These trees don’t produce fruits right away. They generally need to be around seven years old before they start to flower and form fruits, although the age of first fruiting will vary depending on the general health of the tree and its growing conditions. Pawpaws are not self-fertile and a single tree will bloom but not bear fruits. You’ll need at least two separate trees to produce fruits. Since natural pawpaw pollinators are not particularly dependable, you can help your plants along by doing some hand pollination. When both trees are blooming in the spring, simply use a soft paintbrush to gather pollen from one tree and share it with the flowers of the other tree, and vice versa. Fruits start to form immediately after flowering. In the beginning, they are small, oblong, firm, and green. The fruits ripen anywhere from August to October, depending on local climate conditions. Once they start to ripen, all the fruits on the tree will be fully ripe within a short two-week period. Harvest them when they become slightly soft and yellow. Ripe fruits will release easily from their stems. Pawpaw fruits are best eaten fresh. They will last for a few days at room temperature or for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. The soft inner flesh is edible. The large black seeds and skin are not edible. Many people like to cut a pawpaw in half and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, separating it from the skin. Propagation Pawpaws naturally reproduce by seed and by developing colonies from root suckers. New plants that develop from root suckers are genetically identical to the parent plant while plants grown from seed will be genetically unique individuals and therefore able to cross-pollinate and produce. You can sow fresh pawpaw seeds in moist soil in your yard and hope they germinate the following spring, or you can try sprouting the seeds in pots and have a bit more control over their environment. Seed Want to try growing your own pawpaw tree from seed? The process is simple but requires patience. Pawpaw seeds need cold, moist stratification for 70-100 days, followed by a long germination period. Harvest fresh seeds from a mature pawpaw fruit and wash them off to remove the skin-like membrane surrounding each seed. Place the freshly washed seeds on a moist paper towel, wrap them up in the moist towel, and place the moistened seed packet in a plastic bag. Cold stratify this packet in the refrigerator until February or March. Don’t let the seeds dry out after harvesting or they quickly lose viability. After this period of cold stratification, place the seeds in individual pots filled with moist potting soil. The pots should be tall enough to accommodate a long taproot and they should have good drainage. Seeds should be planted one inch deep and kept moist at around 60-70°F (16-21°C). Keep the seeds warm and moist until they germinate, which could be anywhere from three weeks to three months. Don’t give up if they don’t germinate right away, they are very slow to get started. Even after germination, you’ll need to continue being patient. Trees started from seed won’t begin to bear fruit until they are seven or eight years old. Transplanting The best time to plant a pawpaw tree is in the late fall or early spring when the tree is still dormant. These trees develop strong taproots; be careful not to damage or break the taproot while handling your tree during transplanting. Once a pawpaw tree is established in a location, plan to leave it there. Before you transplant a new fruit tree to your yard, you’ll need to select the best site available and prepare the site for transplanting. Clear away weeds and competing vegetation. Dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the pot in which your tree is currently growing. Carefully remove the tree from its pot and gently spread out the roots if they are wound around in the pot. Place the tree roots in the hole, taking care to aim the taproot down. Dig a little deeper if needed, so the taproot is relatively straight rather than fish-hooked in the hole. Make sure the trunk of the tree is straight up and backfill the hole with soil. Add some extra compost or aged cow manure to the soil mix to enhance the soil, as needed. Once your new tree is settled, it’s very important to water it. Give it a thorough, deep watering so the water has enough time to penetrate the soil and not just run off the surface. For the first few weeks after transplanting, keep the tree roots moist so they don’t dry out. Continue watering weekly during the growing season for the first year to ensure a healthy establishment. How to Grow Pawpaw trees are very easy to grow. They are forgiving of many environmental challenges and will grow and become established in average soil, water, and sun conditions. If you can provide ideal growing conditions, you’ll soon have your own grove of native fruit trees thriving in your backyard. Sunlight These trees thrive in both full sun and partial shade. For best fruiting, give them a site where they receive at least two hours of dappled sunlight each day. Pawpaw trees will grow in deep shade but may not flower or produce fruits in these conditions. Water Pawpaw trees like moisture and will grow best in soil that’s uniformly moist. Once they’re established, you shouldn’t need to offer any supplemental watering. During the first year after planting, however, make sure they get regular watering so the roots become firmly established. Water the soil deeply once a week to supplement any lack of natural rainfall. Soil Pawpaws prefer soil that is organically rich, moist, and well-drained. The soil pH should be slightly acidic, between 5.5 and 7.0. These plants won’t grow in very dry, sandy, or nutrient-poor soils, and they won’t thrive in soils that are heavy clay or constantly wet. Climate and Temperature Pawpaw trees are hardy in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 5-9. They tolerate freezing temperatures during the winter, and hot, humid summers. While you can grow pawpaw trees throughout this range, they may not receive enough chill hours to trigger flowering and fruiting in warmer climate regions along the coast and deep south. Fertilizing Pawpaw trees are well-adapted to natural environmental conditions and don’t require extra fertilization. They do, however, benefit from organically rich soil. Add a layer of organic compost or aged cow manure around your plants each spring for a nutrition boost without synthetic fertilizers. Maintenance Pawpaw trees are very low maintenance. They rarely require pruning or other routine care other than watering during times of drought. If allowed to fully naturalize within an area, pawpaws will form colonies from root suckers. Any unwanted root suckers can be pruned off so you can choose to host just a few primary stems rather than an ever-expanding colonization.
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Do you have an American beech tree on your land that you’d like to preserve and maintain for many years to come? Perhaps you’re thinking about transplanting a young, container-grown American beech somewhere near your home? These U.S. natives can become massive, living for hundreds of years if healthy. Plant biologist Emily Estep will tell you everything you need to know about the great American beech. The American beech tree is an iconic species in the eastern United States, native all the way up through Canada and down to the tip of Florida. These enormous perennials can grow up to 80 feet tall with branches surprisingly low on the trunk. Due to their size and the amount of shade provided by their leaves, you absolutely must have enough space before committing to this tree. Fortunately, this native beech is a fairly low-maintenance tree as long as it gets enough water. There’s not much you need to do for this perennial when it’s planted in the right spot in the right zone, and you may enjoy gathering its edible nuts in the fall. Like other species in the Fagus genus, there are a few detrimental diseases that find their way into these trees, so if you’re growing one, keep a sharp eye out. If you’re somewhere in the range of zones 3 through 9 and looking for a giant centerpiece tree, read on to learn more. What Is It? The American beech is a large, deciduous tree. It is the only one out of 13 total beech species that is native to the United States, found growing naturally throughout the eastern third of the country. Large, open areas are the best locations to plant these trees due to their immense size. They produce edible beechnuts that ripen in the fall. Characteristics This enormous tree can grow up to 80 feet tall with a trunk that may get up to three feet wide. It has smooth, gray bark, and its branches are relatively low. American beeches may live for up to 250 years. Note that growing other plants in the shade of this tree can be challenging, between the dense canopy of leaves and shallow roots that can monopolize the soil. Native Area American beech is native to the eastern United States and Canada, growing as south as northern Florida. This temperate region experiences seasonal weather, ranging from freezing, snowy winters to hot summers, especially in the southern tip of the range. Planting Transplanting established American beeches is difficult because of their shallow root system and enormous size, but you can purchase container-grown options to transplant instead. You can also grow these trees from collected beechnuts. When planting, choose a location where the plant will have plenty of room to grow, and avoid planting in an area with compacted soil.
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