While hearty, rich dishes are increasingly common as the weather turns brisk, my family’s table always had a spicy banchan (side dish) to complement the meal. Kimchi was a mainstay but, when I was lucky, my grandma would whip up musaengchae, a spicy, sweet, and savory radish strip salad. Whenever the bright red, marinated vegetable dish emerged from the kitchen, I knew the meal—whether we were having frozen pizza or soondubu jjigae (spicy soft tofu stew)—was going to receive an instant upgrade.